Sibuyan is one of the three main islands and the second largest in the archipelago comprising the province of Romblon in the Philippines. It’s often described as “the Galapagos of Asia” because of its rich biodiversity and how it has remained in isolation from the rest of the country since it was formed. Beyond the moniker, Sibuyan has one of the most unspoiled ecosystems in the Philippines and is home to the world’s densest forest, making it an amazing destination for travelers looking for unspoiled places and raw adventures.

Sibuyan is known mainly for being the home of Mt. Guiting-Guiting, one of the most difficult and technically challenging Philippine mountains on most mountaineers’ bucket lists. For non-hikers, the main draw is Cresta de Gallo, a remote islet with a stunning sandbar usually visited on day trips from the main island.

Beyond these two famous spots, there are many other beautiful and unspoiled attractions and reasons to visit Sibuyan. I’m really drawn to these smaller offbeat islands in the country that don’t get as visited as popular tourist spots. Like other places in the MIMAROPA region like Marinduque and Romblon Island, there’s a distinct charm about Sibuyan because of how uncommercialized it is.

Aside from the raw beauty of the island, I was humbled by the hospitality of the locals who welcomed us, especially the members of the May-as, also called Mangyan tagabukid or “Sibuyanon,” who reside in the rolling and hilly areas of the island when we visited Cawa Cawa Falls. The May-as rely mostly on farming but also extract resources from forests and rivers.

Time felt deliciously slow during our trip around Sibuyan. Because of the remoteness of the island and lack of fast WiFi, I felt cut off from the rest of the world and I loved every minute of it. Sibuyan is a place that will appeal to introverts and those who like slow travel. The coastal circumferential road is particularly scenic and seems like a good length for bike tours. I would really love to go back to loop the entire island by motorcycle or bicycle next time I visit. It felt very safe and peaceful even for solo travelers.

I really hope I can write experientially about the highlights, but for now here’s some essential travel information I can share on how to get there, what to do, where to go, where to stay and where to eat in Sibuyan Island, Romblon to help you plan your trip.

Where exactly is Sibuyan?

Sibuyan Island is one of the three main islands of the province of Romblon in the MIMAROPA region between Luzon and Visayas in the Philippines. Geographically, the province of Romblon lies south of Marinduque and Quezon, north of Aklan and Capiz and west of Masbate. Sibuyan is located in the middle of the namesake Sibuyan Sea. In terms of travel time and accessibility, Sibuyan is the furthest and most challenging of the three main islands of Romblon to travel around.

How to get to Sibuyan (udpated January 2020)

Getting to Sibuyan Island is not the most comfortable journey, but that only adds to the adventure factor. While there is an airstrip in Azagra in the town of San Fernando, there are no commercial flights to Sibuyan Island. Taking a ferry is the easiest way to get to Sibuyan. This requires longer travel time, but taking the plane from one island to another and catching multiple ferries with varying schedules is more time-consuming and costs more. Some connections may require you to stay overnight near the port just to wait for the next available ferry, so be flexible with your itinerary and factor enough travel time.

The easiest way to get here is by taking a direct ferry from Batangas straight to Sibuyan or connect with a shorter ferry crossing from Romblon Town. You can also get here via Odiongan on Tablas Island. Ferry schedules are subject to change. The rates vary depending on the vessel, passenger type and route, but roughly it cost us:

• Batangas to Romblon via 2Go: P1,639.86 per passenger (9 hours overnight; economy class)
• Romblon to Sibuyan via StarHorse: P295 (regular economy fare including Arraste) (2 hours)

By Sea

Batangas to Sibuyan via Starlite Ferries

• From Manila, take a bus (via Calabarzon Express Way) to Batangas City International Port. Travel time about 1-2 hours.
• Take the Starlite Ferries for Port of Ambulong, Magdiwang, Sibuyan Island
• Departure at Port of Batangas: Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 9:00 PM.
• Arrival at Ambulong Port in Magdiwang, Sibuyan Island is 5:00 AM.
• Sea travel time is roughly 8 to 9 hours. Allot enough time at the port to secure tickets beforehand.

Batangas to Romblon Island via 2Go + Romblon Island to Sibuyan via Starhorse Ferry

• 2GO, a more secure and larger ferry travels from the Port of Batangas to Romblon Island, the capital and smaller island across Sibuyan.
• Departure at Port of Batangas: Every Tuesday and Saturday at 9:00 PM.
• Arrival at Port of Romblon at 6:00 AM.
• Transfer to Starhorse ferry leaving at 6:00 AM from Port of Romblon to Port of Ambulong, Magdiwang, Sibuyan Island.
• Arrival at Port of Ambulong at 8:00 AM.

Batangas to Romblon Island with stopover in Tablas (Odiongan) via Montenegro Shipping Lines + Romblon to Sibuyan via Starhorse Ferry

• Departure at Port of Batangas: Every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday at 5:00 PM.
• Stopover at Port of Poctoy, Odiongan (Tablas Island) at 2:00 AM.
• Arrival at Port of Romblon (Romblon Island) at 6:00 AM.
• Take Starhorse ferry leaving at 6:00 AM from Port of Romblon to Port of Ambulong, Magdiwang, Sibuyan Island.
• Arrival at Ambulong Port at 8:00 AM.

Batangas to Cajidiocan (Sibuyan) via Navios Shipping Lines

• Departure at Port of Batangas: Every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 3:00 PM.
• Arrival at Port of Cajidiocan at 6:00 AM, the 2nd port of call.
• Take a jeepney from Port of Cajidiocan to Magdiwang.
• For advanced ticket reservations for Navios Shipping Lines, please call Mobile Number +639081462243.

Lucena to Sibuyan via Starhorse Shipping

• From Manila, take a bus (via Calabarzon Express Way) to Port of Dalahican in Lucena City. Travel time is about 3-4 hours.
• Ride the Starhorse Shipping Lines for Port of Ambulong, Magdiwang, Sibuyan.
• Departure at Port of Dalahican: Every Saturday to Thursday at 4:00 PM.
• Arrival at Port of Ambulong is the next day at 8:00 AM.

Roxas City, Capiz to Romblon via 2Go + Romblon to Sibuyan via Starhorse

• From Roxas City in Capiz, the big ship of 2GO Travel leaves for Romblon at 2:00 PM every Wednesday and Sunday and arrives at the Port of Romblon at 7:00 PM of the same day. You can book a ticket for 2GO Travel at travel.2go.com.ph
• Take Starhorse ferry leaving at 6:00 AM from Port of Romblon to Port of Ambulong Magdiwang, Sibuyan Island.
• You can also ride a pumpbat from the Port of Culasi in Roxas City directly to San Fernando, Sibuyan Island, Romblon leaving 7:30 AM every Monday, Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday.
• From San Fernando, take jeepney or tricycle to Magdiwang.

From Boracay / Caticlan via Sta. Fe (or Looc), Tablas by Pump boat

• Take pumpboat from Port of Caticlan to Sta. Fe (or Looc) on Tablas Island leaving everyday at 8:00 AM.
• Take jeepney to San Agustin.
• Take Starhorse ferry the following day at 6:00 AM from Port of San Agustin to Port of Ambulong.
• Pump boats are available for hire from San Agustin to Port of Ambulong if you want to arrive Sibuyan the same day but rates may be prohibitive. 

By Air + Sea

• Take Cebu Pacific’s Manila to Tablas (Tugdan Airport) flight. Check schedule at www.cebupacificair.com
• Take jeepney to San Agustin.
• Stay overnight at San Agustin.
• Take Starhorse ferry leaving at 4:00 AM from Port of San Agustin to Port of Ambulong.
• Arrival at Port of Ambulong at 8:00 AM.
• Alternatively, you can fly to Roxas City in Capiz and travel by sea from there. See guides above.

Getting around Sibuyan

Once you get to Sibuyan Island, getting around is fairly straightforward. Sibuyan Island is made up of only 3 municipalities: Magdiwang, San Fernando and Cajidiocan. Getting around involves a combination of tricycles, jeepneys, and pumpboats. The towns of Sibuyan are linked to each other by public jeepney trips, which are usually timed to meet ferries at the pier.

The 91.5 km long circumferential road is paved with some sections of gravel, asphalt, and sand. While public transportation options are limited, by private vehicle, you can easily get around the whole island in less than 3 hours. Take note, that the road can get muddy and slippery after rain and some sections are prone to landslides.

Tourists can hire single motorcycles and tricycles to take them between the three main towns. Don’t expect regular trips though. A tricycle from Magdiwang to San Fernando runs at around P500 for a special trip. Some other spots and waterfalls inland are only reachable by 4 x 4 vehicles. The three town propers are very walkable.

While staying at Nature Garden Sanctuary in Magdiwang, I was able to rent a mountain bike to go around a bit on my own. The resort rents out semi-automatic motorbikes, mountain bikes, tricycles, jeepneys and cars.

• Motorcycle rental: P600 per day (excluding fuel)
• Mountain bike rental: P200 per day
• Jeepney & cars for rent: P5,000 per day (fuel and driver included)

Things to do in Sibuyan Island

Sibuyan is not for everybody. Don’t expect fancy resorts or hassle-free package tours. This offbeat island will appeal mostly to mountaineers, nature-lovers, backpackers, bikers and divers and adventurous travelers willing to rough it out. The most popular activities to do include:

• Hike up Mt. Guiting-Guiting
• Island-hopping to Cresta de Gallo
• Cliff jumping at Cantigas River Resort
• Hike and swim in waterfalls
• Go firefly watching and kayaking
• Snorkeling at Magdiwang Fish Sanctuary
• Go mountain biking on bike trails
• Go birdwatching

Where to go in Sibuyan Island

I’m really happy that we got to explore all 3 of Sibuyan Island’s municipalities and make a full loop of the island. After arriving at the port in Magdiwang, we stayed 2 nights in San Fernando, spent a day in Cajidiocan and stayed 2 nights in Magdiwang to visit the main attractions before heading back by ferry to Romblon Island.

Ruins of San Fernando

I really like the vibe of abandoned places, especially those that have been taken over by nature. In the town proper in San Fernando, you can find ruins of a huge Spanish Casa from World War II that used to accommodate Spanish and Filipino elites.

While some window frames and columns are visible, trees and branches snake all over the structure, giving it a jungle feel. It reminded me of the temples in Angkor Wat or something out of Tomb Raider and Horizon Zero Dawn. Very nice and otherworldly.

Cantingas River Resort

Said to be one of the country’s cleanest inland bodies of water, Cantingas River Resort offers a natural swimming pool with a stunning view of mountains. This beautiful site is located just 4 km away from the Poblacion in San Fernando is easily accessible by public and private vehicles.

Locals enjoy cliff-jumping from various platforms over the river. The water is so clean that visitors can actually drink the water directly from the river as they swim. Huts and a conference hall have been constructed nearby.

Cresta de Gallo

The poster destination in Sibuyan and highlight for most tourists visiting Sibuyan is Cresta de Gallo, a five-hectare kidney-shaped islet with a stunning sandbar. San Fernando is the jump-off point for island-hopping trips.

The terrain slopes down to a powdery white sand beach surrounded by beautiful coral reefs. There’s no freshwater here, so it’s ideal for day trips instead of overnight camping. It was an amazing experience to be able to enjoy this remote and beautiful island all to ourselves.

Dagubdob Falls

Sibuyan is home to at least 44 waterfalls, though only a few are accessible to tourists. We got to visit a few of these cascades around the island.

READ MORE: Waterfalls of Sibuyan Island

While in San Fernando, we visited Dagubdob Falls, a 4-tiered waterfall that involves a leisurely trek and river crossings to get to. The cascades weren’t that high, but the pools had cool and clear water ideal for swimming.

A wooden bridge leading to the last waterfall was not passable during our visit, but we were content enough with the nature hike and just chilling out in the first few pools.

Busay Falls

Busay Falls is another waterfall we visited while in San Fernando. This scenic spot with a natural pool about 2.5 km from the town proper is one of the most popular waterfalls on the island for locals. The upper portion is the water reservoir serving the town.

Getting here requires a pleasant trek among coconut trees. A small pool at the base of the falls offers a great spot to cool down after the hike. A large rock right in front of the falls also serves as a nice photo op stop.

Cawa Cawa Falls

While in Cajidiocon, we visited Cawa Cawa Falls, a secluded waterfall whose main basin resembles a cauldron. The waterfall has 3 levels and getting up to the top tier requires a bit of rock scrambling. The lower level has clear water and a nice basin for swimming.

Cawa Cawa Falls is located within the ancestral domain of indigenous Sibuyan Mangyan Tagabukid. Beyond just visiting the waterfall for sightseeing & swimming, we spent a lovely afternoon here listening to traditional songs and music while having a snack of freshwater shrimp, buko juice and kakanin.

Lambingan Falls

Lambingan Falls located in Magdiwang is a multi-tiered waterfall that is easily accessible to tourists. The lower tier has a rope swing, while the higher cascade has a nice basin and sloped boulders right under the waterfall that you can climb so you can feel the full force of the cascade on your back and head.

Mt. Guiting Guiting National Park

Mt. Guiting-Guiting or G2 is the highest peak in Romblon. Considered among the more challenging mountains of the country to climb, it rises more than 6,000 feet above sea level and has a rugged terrain that presents a series of challenges to mountaineers and climbers.

A certain fitness level is required for hiking up G2. The whole climb takes 3 days and 2 nights. Hikers need to bring their own tent, cook set, and reliable footwear.

Magdiwang Fish Sanctuary

Sibuyan is said to be a great place for snorkeling and scuba diving because of the vibrant marine life in the area. We were supposed to go snorkeling at Ikaduha Fish Sanctuary, but unfortunately, the current was too strong and our boat’s engine died during the boat ride, so we had to cancel the activity for safety.

Magdiwang Beach

The visit to Magdiwang Beach wasn’t on our itinerary, but I decided to check it out while biking around town. The public beach stretches over two kilometers on the western side of Magdiwang, facing the Sibuyan Sea.

There are also various viewpoints along the road, where locals head to just to watch the sunset, shoot the breeze, or get a better data signal.

Where to eat in Sibuyan

There aren’t a lot of fancy dining options on the whole island of Sibuyan, though some resorts and inns have small eateries that serve basic meals.

While in San Fernando, we took most of our meals at MC Town Centre Resto Bar, which had a small eatery serving budget-friendly silog meals, halo-halo and shakes. Another dining spot is Benj’s Restaurant facing the beach in San Fernando.

The town of Cajidocian offers a more interesting dining scene with small business owners specializing in cakes, pastries and coffee. Bash Cafe serves freshly brewed coffee, pastries and Blueberry Cheesecake.

Chai Tea Cafe Bubble Tea House served milk tea, fappes, fruit juices and snacks like burgers, pasta and Pancit Sibuyan, a local noodle dish.

While in Magdiwang, you can enjoy meals in Rancher’s, a Bed & Breakfast and restaurant/bar in town that serves comfort food like chicken inasal and appetizers to go with beer and videoke.

Sanctuary Garden Resort also has its own in-house restaurant and bar. The best place to dine here is their view deck, a hut on a hill where you can get views of Mt. Guiting-Guiting on clear days.

The meals I enjoyed the most were those prepared for us by our hosts, including lunch at Councilor Titing Rios house, snacks of local delicacies at the Royo residence, dinner at Magdiwang Mayor Arthur Tansiongco’s house, and freshwater shrimps during our community visit to Cawa Cawa Falls. Got to love that provincial hospitality!

Where to stay in Sibuyan

Sanctuary Garden Resort

The best and most recommended place to stay in Sibuyan is Sanctuary Garden Resort located at Barangay Tampayan in Magdiwang, about 30 mins from Mt G2’s National Park entrance. The resort is located within a 30-hectare property with a forest and river environment, with hiking trails on rolling grassy hills.

Their air-conditioned Executive Rooms and Private Rooms are cozy and comfortable, with huge bathrooms with marble walls and floors. For budget travelers, they have affordable dormitory fan rooms.

From their view deck, guests can get a breathtaking 360-degree view of the sea, the nearby islands, the fields, and the full facade of this famous mountain, and Mount Guiting-Guiting. Just a few steps away from the resort’s villas is Pawala River, a natural pool of crystal clear water ideal for swimming and kayaking.

• Address: Sanctuary Garden Resort. Barangay Tampayan, Magdiwang, Sibuyan Island, Romblon, Philippines 5511
• Dormitory Fan Room (room good for 4 pax) – P327/night per person
• Semi-private Fan Room (good for 2-3 pax) – P981/night
• Semi-private AC Room (good for 2-3 pax) – P1,383/night
• Ordinary private room (good for 2-3 pax) – P1,048/night
• Private room (good for 2 pax) – P1,569/night
• Executive Room (good for 2-3 pax) – P1,961/night
• Family AC Room (Good for 6 pax) – P2,746/night
• Mobile No: +63 9399171635 (Smart), +63 9285504531 (Smart), +63 9178298722 (Globe)
• Facebook: Sanctuary Garden Resort
• Website: https://www.sanctuarygardenresort.net/

Rancher’s Place Bed & Breakfast

Those who want to stay close to town can opt to stay in Rancher’s Bed & Breakfast. Rancher’s offers basic backpacker-friendly accommodations and a rooftop where you can just kick back at the end of the day. It’s walking distance to everything in town including the market, port and beach.

• Address: Rancher’s Place Bed & Breakfast, Rizal St., Magdiwang, Sibuyan Island, Romblon
• Rates: P800/night good for 2 pax with breakfast
• Contact: 0908-7864006
• Email: nonoyradan@yahoo.com

MC Town Centre

While in San Fernando, we stayed in MC Town Centre, a commercial building that has a lodging house with just 5 rooms right across the San Fernando Municipal Hall. Airconditioned rooms are basic but serviceable with clean and modern bathrooms. This offers a safe place to stay in town before or after going to Cresta De Gallo.

• Address: Gov. Perez St., Poblacion, San Fernando, Sibuyan Island, Romblon
• Economy room (good for 8 pax): P30o – 350/person with aircon: P250 per person with electric fan
• 3 Deluxe Rooms (good for 2 pax each): P850/day or P350 for 3 hours
• Family Room (good for 5 pax): P1,750/day for 4; P1,950/day for 5 pax
• Contact: 0915-9032511, 09362801897
• Facebook: MC Town Center

What to buy in Sibuyan

The province of Romblon is famous for its marble products, traditional weaving and basketry. Handicrafts are a major home industry for the communities. While in Cajidiocan, we stopped by the Romblon State University Hand Weaving facility to buy some beautiful handwoven scarves produced by community women.

Other souvenirs unique to Sibuyan include Wild Sibuyan Honey, pure raw wild honey harvested by local tribes in Mt. Guiting-Guiting and Balitsaw, the local version of bagoong or fermented shrimp mixed with coconut milk. Teresing’s Balitsaw, which originates from Magdiwang, is available in Ginataang Alamang & Ginamos/Spicy or regular flavors.

Travel tips & useful information

• Sibuyan is part of the MIMAROPA region, only one of two regions that does not have any land connection to a neighboring region.
• Expect to disconnect in Sibuyan and the entire province of Romblon.
• As of our visit in January 2020, it was difficult to get Globe and Smart data signals and WiFi signals.
• In San Fernando, we were able to connect to the public Wifi near the town hall. Some of us got a few pockets of data connection, but the signal was intermittent.
• The ferry schedules are not followed strictly. Trips may be delayed or canceled altogether due to weather conditions and other factors. It’s best to allot extra travel time / days in case of emergencies.
• While there are a few ATMs available in Romblon town, prepare enough cash on hand when traveling to Sibuyan in case you get stranded.
• Sibuyan is not the place for parties and nightlife. Shops and establishments close very early.
• This is a great destination for travelers looking for peace and solitude.

NOTE: This trip was made possible by the Department of Tourism (DOT) MIMAROPA Region, the Provincial Government of Romblon and the municipalities of San Fernando, Cajidiocan and Magdiwang in Sibuyan Island.

Thank you to Mayor Arthur Tansiongco (Magdiwang), Mayor Salem R. Tansingco (San Fernando), Hon. Nick Ramos (Cajidiocan), Councilor Titing Rios, Domenic Contreras of DOT- MIMAROPA, Nelson Nace of Dream Favor Travel and Tours and our guides Rodne Galicha and Ronnie Royo for facilitating our travel.