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Travel Guide: Sabtang Island, Batanes

Kara Santos

Sabtang Island is one of the three main inhabited islands of Batanes, the northernmost province in the Philippines. With its well-preserved culture, beautiful natural landscapes, and friendly people, this remote island is such a refreshing escape. Sabtang is one of the most laid-back and peaceful places I’ve been to in the country.

It’s the kind of place where you’re torn between switching off your phone completely and putting your camera down to just enjoy the view or trying to capture every single spot you come across because it’s just so beautiful. Most people will opt for the latter especially if they’re just visiting Sabtang Island on a day trip to see the main tourist spots. But if you want to really savor the place and disconnect, I recommend you stay here for a few days.

Where exactly is Sabtang island?

Batanes is an archipelago province in the Philippines situated in the Cagayan Valley region. It is the northernmost province in the country, and also the smallest in population and land area. Sabtang is one of the three inhabited islands of Batanes, the others are Batan and Itbayat.

How to get to Sabtang island

Sabtang Island is accessible by a short boat ride from two ports (mainly Ivana Port) in Basco on the island of Batan. Passenger fare costs roughly P100 per person. Travel time on the boat is about 30-45 minutes depending on the wave conditions. Boats usually leave in the morning, with last trips going back to Batan at around 3:00 pm though sometimes boats can leave as late as 5:00 pm. It’s possible to get stranded on the island if waves are too rough.

The boat used is a faluwa, a traditional boat without any outriggers that is made for strong waves. Boatmen steer the boat with their feet while keeping an eye on the waves from above the deck. The boat can also carry cargo like mountain bikes and motorcycles for a cargo fee.

Batan is reachable by 4 commercial aircrafts from Manila, Clark and Tuguegarao. Aside from Philippine Air Lines and SkyJet, Wakay Air, an Ivatan-run airline launched chartered flights to Basco starting late March 2016 in partnership with AirSWIFT. Cebu Pacific launched flights to Basco in 2018.

Getting around

For big groups, it’s best to rent a jeep or van to visit all the sights in Sabtang Island. For smaller groups (up to 4 pax), you can hire their “Tricy-cool,” open-air tricycles with nipa hut cottage roofs, which are stationed right outside the port.

If you know how to bike or drive a motorcycle, Sabtang is a great place to explore on two wheels. There are no shops renting out mountain bikes or motorcycles yet with fixed rates, but you can talk to locals about borrowing these for a fee. I was able to borrow a mountain bike from the police station there to go around. Try to get a mountain bike instead of a vintage bicycle because the roads are quite steep in Sabtang.

READ MORE: Biking in Sabtang Island, Batanes

There are more options for bike and motorcycle rentals in Basco, so you can also borrow or rent from there and bring it on the boat when you go to Sabtang. Locals who come to Sabtang also bring their own motorcycles on board the boat.

Where to go/What to do in Sabtang

Savidug Village: A traditional village which showcases the Ivatan stone houses built to withstand typhoons.

St. Thomas Aquinas Chapel: A quaint chapel in Savidug Village. Next to it is an old priest’s house that is no longer used. The houses’s wide windows are commonly used for photo ops by tourists.

Chamantad Cove and Tinyan Viewpoint: One of the highest points in Sabtang Island, this beautiful scenic spot has rolling hills and a small trail leading to a dramatic seascape. One of the most iconic spots in Sabtang Island. There are now native huts near the road going to the lookout point, where you can enjoy refreshments like kamote cue, bocayo, and tuba.

Chavayan: A small village located in the Southern end of the island nestled in the mountains. The village is known for its well-preserved stone houses and for being the home of the Sabtang Weavers Association. These women weave the vakul, a traditional headdress made of dried palm leaves that Ivatans use to protect themselves from the sun, wind and rain in the fields.

Sta. Rosa de Lima Chapel: A small chapel in the village of Chavayan. Like the other stone houses, the chapel has a cogon grass roof.

San Vicente Ferrer Church: A century-old church dedicated to San Vicente Ferrer originally built by the Dominicans in 1785 and restored with stones and lime in 1884. The church has been named a national historical landmark.

Sabtang Lighthouse: One of the five lighthouses in Batanes and the only one in Sabtang Island. The lighthouse offers a beautiful view from the top.

Morong Beach: A beautiful white beach where you can swim. This is usually the last stop during day tours as there’s a restaurant right beside the beach where tourists have lunch.

Mahayao Arch: A natural arc formation that can be found on Morong Beach. This is one of Sabtang Island’s famous landmarks.

Sumnanga Fishing Village: Located in the southwestern side of the island, Sumnanga is a sleepy fishing village. Locals have dubbed it Little Hong Kong named after real Hong Kong, which used to be a fishing village.

We stopped by this interesting rock formation on the coastal road going to Sumnanga Fishing Village

Vuhus Island: An uninhabited island accessible by a 15-20 minute boat ride from Sabtang. This island is also called Cow Island because residents keep their cattle here. There’s a marine sanctuary near the island.

Batanes Zipline

Yup. There’s now a zipline in Batanes. Batanes Zipline is located on a hill in Sabtang Island about 100 MASL and drops near Morong beach and Mayahao Arch. If you want to conquer your fear of heights, this is a pretty scenic place to do it. For inquiries, Call 09989983121.

Sample itinerary / Day tours to Sabtang Island

For those taking a day trip, there are packaged half-day Sabtang Island Tours with lunch offered from Basco covering the main highlights.

Where to stay in Sabtang Island

As of May 2018, many residents have turned their houses into homestays because of the increasing number of tourists. If you’re not part of a package tour, you can head to the barangay center, so you can get assigned to a homestay. Some are traditional stone houses, while others are more modern structures. Most of the homestays are located near the port area, but you can also opt to stay in the more remote villages like Chavayan.

As of 2018, one of the newest homestay options is Pananayan Homestay, run by Auntie Fafa (who also owns Pananayan catering service near the port and restaurant near Morong Beach). The modern house has several rooms suitable for large groups, private CR, and a wide balcony on the second floor with a stunning view of Sabtang lighthouse.

Rooms are pricier than other homestays at P1,500 to 2,000 depending on the set-up. They have one AC room for P3,500.

Candel Homestay is a stone house just across the police station on the main highway. The homestay has several rooms, a large bathroom and airy sala with large windows where you can enjoy the view. Homestays around the poblacion area usually cost P300 – P500 per pax (for fan rooms). During peak season, you may have to share rooms with other guests if there are not enough places to stay in town.

Neyala Homestay, now has a total of 4 rooms: 1
-1AC room with exclusive CR(max 4pax)
-2 AC/FAN Room(max 4&7pax)
-1FAN Room(max 3pax)

FAN Room: 300/pax
AC Room: (with breakfast)
-1pax=800
-2pax=600/pax
-3pax=500/pax

The rooms good for four have one double deck bed and one single bed each, a closet, and an electric fan. There’s a common CR and outdoor porch area on the 2nd floor. The homestay is walking distance from the port. Our host family was very accommodating. They provided towels, soap, and pamaypays (which I found out are necessary at night because electricity is cut off on the island at midnight). They also offered to let us sleep in the porch where it was cooler and invited us to eat dinner for free since they prepared a lot of food for the fiesta. Fan fooms cost P300/person per night. For inquiries, contact Teresita: 0920-6200754, Rita: 0919-8885141 or JB: 0949-9922551

For those who want something a little more secluded, Twin Heart Hometel is a new establishment in Mayuray, Sinakan on the way to Chavidug and Chavayan Village in front of a wide stretch of beach. Contact: 0965-1165153/0946-2758281. Email: twinhearthometel@gmail.com. FB: Twin Heart Hometel

What / Where to eat in Sabtang island

There are a few simple restaurants and eateries in Sabtang Island where most tourists eat. Pananayan Canteen & Catering Services in Malakdang, near the port of Sabtang is the most accessible. The eatery, owned by Mr. Pinding and Mrs. Fafa serves simple family-style meals and original Ivatan dishes depending on what ingredients are available daily. For reservations, contact them at: Smart: 0929-6676715, 0908-5022900. Globe: 0917-4467934.

The same owners also cater at the restaurant at Morong Beach, where most visitors have lunch during day trip tours. During our stay, we got to try a lot of Ivatan specialties. Must-eats include turmeric rice, uvud (meatballs made with banana pith), dibang or flying fish and lunis (Ivatan adobo).

Coconut crab, once considered a specialty in the province, is endangered and has become overharvested because of the influx of tourists. If you dine in a restaurant, choose other types of seafood like crabs and lobsters.

As an alternative to the restaurant in Morong beach, you can also have meals catered at Twin Heart Hometel, which has an outdoor dining area near the beach.

What to buy in Sabtang

Sabtang Island has their own version of the famous Honesty Coffee Shop in Batan Island called Conscience Cafe. Located right next to the church near the port, Conscience Cafe is a self-service shop where you can buy a range of souvenirs like t-shirts, magnets and bags. You can also buy light snacks, 3-in-1 coffee and refreshments here.

The vakul is the most sought-after souvenir item from Batanes. This traditional headdress is an icon of the province and can cost from P200 to P650 depending on the size. There are only a handful of old women weavers in Batanes left, and purchasing the vakul gives them an additional source of income. Miniature versions of the vakul, hats and native baskets which can be used as backpacks are also sold.

The best place to buy the vakul is from the Sabtang Weavers Association in Chavayan. They also sell unique woven abaca sandals which locals have dubbed “Chavayanas.”

There are also a range of souvenir shirts and bags, mugs, keychains and magnets. For food products, you can buy dried flying fish and dorado, turmeric powder, bottled flying fish & vegetables like onions and garlic. You can buy these from Conscience Cafe, the canteen and various stores around Sabtang.

Arius fruit wine is a new product made from the fruit from the arius tree, the national tree of Batanes. The pine like tree bears sweet and sultry reddish purple berries native to Batanes. The berries are often used for aesthetics especially during the holiday season when it is decorated as a Christmas tree. You can find the wine being sold around shops in Sabtang.

Festivals

In 2016, Sabtang Island launched the 1st Vakul-Kanayi Festival which coincides with the feast day of St. Vincent de Ferrer, their patron saint. This festival, celebrated from April 25 to 27, highlights the traditional garments which are symbols of the Ivatan people’s creativity and resilience.

Travel tips & useful information

NOTE: Information for this travel guide was compiled from three separate trips to Sabtang Island in Batanes on January 2014, April 2016  and May 2018.

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