Catanduanes is an island province of the Philippines, located in the Bicol Region. In the past, the province was known as the “Land of the Howling Winds” because typhoons would made landfall here before hitting the rest of the country. It’s second claim to fame was purely as a surfing destination. A more fitting tagline is its moniker now, the “Happy Island.”

As a destination, Catanduanes will appeal to travelers who love the outdoors. The Pacific coastline continues to attract surfers, but for non-surfers, there’s much more to discover. Catanduanes is home to a stunning beaches and islands, lagoons, caves and waterfalls. Since it’s still relatively off the tourist radar compared to the other provinces in the Bicol region, Catanduanes has been described as a “Sleeping beauty,” just waiting for the hidden gems to be discovered.

Fellow travel bloggers and I were blown away by the beautiful destinations we got to visit. I’m really glad to have had the chance to explore more of the island since I first set foot here in 2011. As the 12th largest island in the Philippines, there are still a lot of places we couldn’t visit with our limited time. It could take you from 2 weeks to a month, just visiting all the most accessible tourist spots. But I would love to go back here on a motorcycle tour and loop the whole island. The name “Happy Island” really fits. For those interested in seeing why for yourself, I hope you find the travel guide below useful.

Where exactly is Catanduanes?

Catanduanes is located in the Bicol Region off the eastern coast of the Bicol Peninsula in the Philippines. It is situated in the easternmost fringe of Luzon bounded by the west by the Maqueda Channel, on the south by Lagonoy Gulf, and on the north and east by the Philippine sea. 

How to get to Catanduanes

By air: Plane from Manila to Virac, Catanduanes

Direct flights are available from Manila to the capital Virac, Catanduanes. Cebu Pacific has 4 flights a week leaving 6:55 am and arriving at 8:00 am. Travel time is 1 hour and 5 minutes.

By air + sea: Plane from Manila to Legazpi, Albay + Ferry to Catanduanes

You can also fly to Legazpi (which has more flight options) and transfer to a ferry to Catanduanes. Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines fly from Manila to Legazpi with multiple flights daily starting at 5:15 am and 9:25 am. From the Legazpi airport, go to the Legazpi Grand Terminal and ride a van going to the Tabaco City seaport to board the ferry (see details below). Travel time is 30 mins.

By land + sea: Ride Bus/Drive to Tabaco, Albay + Ferry to Catanduanes

Travel directly to Catanduanes by bus (10-12 hours) or private vehicle along South Luzon Super Highway then hop on the RoRo (2.5 hours) or fastcraft (1.5 hours) at Tabaco Port to San Andres port in Catanduanes. Daily trips are available. Bus Fare from Manila to Tabaco City/Virac ranges from P1000 to P1500 (inclusive of sea crossing).

• Bicol Isarog bus on Cubao – Virac trips departs daily at 5:00 pm. Contact No. 0908-8512643. You can book tickets online.
• MIRASOL leaves at 2:00 to 3:00 pm from Pasay-Virac. Contact. 0908-8512644
• Pasay buses leave at 1pm from Pasay – Virac. Contact: 0908-8512670

Alternatively, you can travel by bus from Manila to Tabaco and transfer to a ferry from Tabaco to Catandunes. Buses traveling to Tabaco include RSL Bus Line, Cagsawa Bus Line, DLTB Bus Co. Line, Alps and Isarog Bus Line.

By sea: Roll-On, Roll-Off Ferry from Tabaco, Albay to San Andres, Catanduanes

For those driving private vehicles like cars, vans and motorcycles, drive all the way to Tabaco City Port in Albay. Board the Roll-On Roll-Off Ro ferries such as MV Regina Calixta and MV Eugene Elson which offer daily trips. Travel time is about 2.5 – 3 hours depending on sea conditions. Fare ranges from P115 to P300 per passenger depending on where you’re seated (ordinary or aircon cabin). Additional cargo fees apply.

• Adult: P230 (ordinary), P300 (aircon)
• Children (4 – 11 years old): P115 (ordinary), P150 (aircon)
• Senior Citizen: P184 (ordinary) – P240 (aircon)

Cargo Fees for vehicles (one way)

• Bus: P5,413
• Mini Bus: P3,750
• Pick Up or Van: P1,950
• Motorcycles (above 400 cc): P700
• Motorcycles (below 400 cc): P350
• Bicycles: P200

Fastcraft: For passengers not bringing vehicles, trips aboard the Silangan Express Fastcraft (Aircon only) offers a faster travel time of just 1.5 hours.

• Adult: P320
• Student/senior citizens/PWDs: P230
• Children: P145

MV Regina Calixta (daily trips)

• Tabaco to San Andres at 7:00 am & 1:00 pm
• San Andres to Tabaco at 8:00 am and 1:00 pm

MV Eugene Elson (daily trips)

• Tabaco to Virac at 6:30 am
• Virac to Tabaco at 1:00 pm

Fastcraft Silangan Express (daily trips)

• Tabaco to San Andres at 7:00 am & 12:30 pm
• San Andres to Tabaco at 7:30 am & 1:30 pm

* Sea travel time to and from San Andres is shorter than those going to Virac. There are lots of vans and jeepneys from the San Andres port heading to Virac, Pandan and other parts of Catanduanes. Schedules are subject to change by management or weather conditions.

HOTLINES

• PMO Bicol – (052) 4820304
• Port Police Deprtment – (052) 4807891
• TMO Tabaco – (052) 4877707
• Philippine Coast Guard – 0928-4503057
• PNP Maritime Group – 0917-5895017

Getting around in Catanduanes

The primary mode of transportation in and around Catanduanes is the tricycle, which are motorcycles with an enclosed sidecar for passengers. Within the Virac town proper, fare ranges from P8-12/person for short rides. Public transport, jeeps and vans connect Virac with the rest of the towns. However, because of the distance and to maximize travel time, you might want to hire a van or private form of transport. Accredited tour operators can arrange hassle-free transport services in and around the island.

• Island Escape Travel & Tours is a Virac-based DOT accredited travel agency that offers package tours around Catanduanes including island-hopping to Caramoan. Facebook: Island Escape Travel & Tours. Email:
  islandescape_traveltours@yahoo.com.ph Contact: 0949-4622641
• Katandungan Travel & Tours is another Virac-based tour operator who can assist adventure seekers and nature lovers who want to experience the perfect Catanduanes & Caramoan Island Vacation getaway. Facebook: Katandungan Travel & Tours. Email: tours.katandungan@yahoo.com. Contact: 0995-8832865

For solo travelers who prefer to travel DIY, motorbikes would be the best option. As of my visit, motorbike rentals are not commercially available, though it is possible to borrow from locals for a fee. For riders coming from the mainland, you can bring your own motorcycles on the RoRo ferry. Take note that while the main coastal highway in Catanduanes is paved and you can do a 360 loop, but many roads leading in to specific sites of interest and those in away from the major towns, are unpaved, pass through steep, hilly areas and are subject to wash-outs and landslides during and after periods of heavy rain. Allot at least 3-5 days of riding (+2 days travel time to and from Manila) to maximize your trip.

Mountain biking around Catanduanes is also an epic option for a bikepacking tour if you have the time to spare and are crazy enough. The island is the 12th largest in the country, so it would take several days to loop the island and go sightseeing.

Where to go / What to do in Catanduanes

Puraran Beach: Located on the eastern coast of the island, Puraran contains the famous “Majestics,” a surfing spot facing the Pacific Ocean that put Catanduanes on the international map. Depending on the season, you can experience impressive but deadly waves here. This surf spot is best only for experienced surfers because of the reef breaks. Non-surfers can just enjoy swimming at the beach lined with creamy golden sand, clear waves and coral reefs.

Binurong Point: One of the relatively new scenic spots which has garnered a lot of attention recently on social media is Binurong Point, reachable by a hike from a rocky beach in Baras. Binurong Point has four unique vantage points that offer sweeping views of the coast and seas. It’s often compared to Batanes in terms of the beautiful vistas, but the place has its own unique charm.

If you have a limited time in Catanduanes and aren’t planning on surfing, this is definitely the most scenic site you can visit. Plan your visit early in the morning (leave Virac as early as 4:00 am) as it can get scorching hot here by mid-day, as we found out.

Balacay Point: Another popular tourist spot for sightseeing which offers a view of the Pacific horizon with Balacay Island on the left and Puraran Beach on the right. The spot is now accessible by a concrete road going to the top of the hill reachable by cars and motorcycles. Compared to Binurong point, Balacay point has a higher vantage point, but is smaller in terms of size.

Hitoma Lake: Hitoma Lake is a rustic spot in Caramoran, a town in the northern part of the island province of Catanduanes, about 87 km from the capital town of Virac. The lake offers a peaceful spot where you can enjoy meals prepared by the community aboard bamboo rafts and cottages. Agriculture (growing rice and coconuts) and fishing are the main sources of livelihood in town and this is one of the newer offerings.

Cagnipa Rolling Hills: Another stunningly beautiful spot in Pandan with landscapes reminiscent of Batanes, where you can enjoy sweeping views of the skies and the sea, islands and coves.

Tuwad-Tuwadan Lagoon: Accessible from Cagnipa Hills by a concrete stairway, Tuwad-Tuwadan Lagoon offers a natural deep and clear pool enclosed by cliffs where visitors can take a dip.

Palumbanes Islands: Situated off the coast in the town of Caramoran, the Palumbanes group of islands is made up of of 3 islands, namely Parongpong (Palumbanes) Island, Tignob Island and Calabagio Island.

Island-hopping trips will bring you to various beaches, hills and pristine spots teeming with beautiful corals and fish. Some spots are being eyed as potential diving destinations. Palumbanes can be reached by a 30 minute to 1 hour boat ride from the sea port of Caramoran town.

Carorian: Carorian is a small village in the town of Bato where you can visit various spots fringed by rock formations and amazing marine life, a waterfall streaming from teh side of the cliff and more. One of the highlights here is Poseidon Rock, an area with unique rock formations, crystal-clear lagoons and snorkeling sites nearby.

Bato Church: The St. John the Baptist Church also known as the “Bato Church” is the oldest church in the province. This picturesque church is located right beside the highway parallel to the extensive Bato River. Built with mortar and coral limestones, the church has stood the test of time and weathered frequent violent typhoons, earthquakes and other natural calamities.

Twin Rock Beach Resort located just south of Virac is one of the best known and developed resorts in the island. Situated in a cove, the resort is called because of its twin rock formations where you can get up close during low tide. The place is ideal for kayaking because of tranquil and shallow waters, and has facilities for wall-climbing, ATVs and a short zipline over the water.

Ilihan Point: One of the most popular landmarks in the province is a phallic shaped landmass located at Bagamanoc Bay called “Boto ni Kurakog” (which literally translates to Kurakog’s Penis). The landmark is a column of earth and loose rock that rises five meters above the sea and resembles the male sex organ with a healthy shrub growing on top of it. Local superstitions abound that those who want to have children pay a visit to the rock.

Waterfalls: Catanduanes has several notable waterfalls that you can visit, including Marinawa Falls, a set of cascading cataracts about 7km north of Virac. It is possible to swim and bathe in the pools at the base of the waterfalls, and there are picnic areas.

Caramoan Islands: Caramoan is a group of islands in the Bicol Region that’s best known for being the filming location of several seasons of the hit reality show Survivor. Though it’s geographically located in Camarines Sur, the fastest and most direct route here is via Catanduanes. If you haven’t been there yet, you can also include an island hopping day-trip here during your trip to Catanduanes, as we did during our most recent trip. Tugawe Cove is just a 30 minute boat ride from the Codon port.

Where to stay in Catanduanes

Lucky Hotel and Resort

Our home while covering the recent Abaca Festival was Lucky Hotel and Resort, a centrally located hotel in Virac with cozy, clean and well-appointed rooms, ranging from P1,200 to P6,300 a night. The best feature is their luxurious swimming pool on the 8th floor, where you can enjoy the breeze and sunset views of the cityscape and mountains.

• Standard Room Double  – P1,200 / night
• Deluxe Room Double – P1,800 / night
• Junior Suite – P2,500 (good for 4) / night

For those on a budget, Virac Hometel is another convenient option in the city. Virac Hometel. 0919-9945079. Email: virachometel@yahoo.com.ph.

• Single Room – P1,000 / night
• Bunk Room – P1,200 / night
• Double Room – P2,000 / night
• Twin Bed Room – P2,000 / night
• Family Room – P2,500 / night

Kemji Resort

Kemji Resort is also ideal for those on a budget, groups and families. Kemji Resort and Restaurant. 0999-8857907. Email: email.kemjiofficial@gmail.com.

• Economy Room – P1,000 (good for 3) / night
• Standard Double – P1,100 / night
• Double Deluxe – P1,200 /  night
• Royal Double – P1,500 / night
• Family Suite – P3,000 (good for 3) to P3,500 (good for 4) / night

TRAVEL TIP: Both Virac Hometel and Kemji Resort offer safe & free shuttle service to and from San Andres Port. Drop off time from hotel at 7:00 am and 11:30 am. Pick up time at San Andres Port 10:00 am & 4:00 pm is another convenient option in the city.

Puraran Surf Resort

For surfers who want easy access to the waves, this is the best choice. Located in Baras, Puraran Surf Beach Resort is a small, intimate beach resort and the home of the well-known “Majestic” waves where surfers can enjoy long-barrel-type surf.

• Cottage Types – Php 700 / night
• Aircon room – Php 1,500, Php 1,000 / night
• Tent Rental – Php 250 / night
• Hammock – Php 150 / night
• Monthly Arrangements – for long staying guests, they offer monthly arrangements and vacation rental spaces.

Carangyan Beach Resort

Located just west of the town of Pandan, Carangyan Beach Resort is situated in a coconut grove on a golden sand beach and offers a space for large groups to stay. The main building has an open-air second floor with a restaurant, bar and spacious dining area overlooking the bay. This is a good place to base if you want to visit Caginpa Rolling Hills and Tuwad-Tuwadan Lagoon. The can also be accessed by a short boat ride from Pandan.

• Beach cottage (aircon) – P 2,500/day
• Deluxe rooms (aircon) – P1,800/day
• Natural cottage (fan) – P1,500/day

What / Where to eat in Catanduanes

Catanduanes is part of the Bicol region, known for dishes like laing and Bicol Express cooked in gata (coconut milk), though the local variants are not as spicy as those in other Bicol towns.

One of the best places we got to eat in was Delicia’s Farm, a demo-farm designed to engage the Pandan community to practice sustainable agriculture. The farm is a bit remote and difficult to get to, but the food like roasted chicken with fresh herbs, laing with crayfish, ginataang langka, ensalada, kamote juice, mint and cucumber juice were amazing.

Another food highlight was the fresh seafood and simple island-living boodle fight meals you can enjoy during island-hopping trips and beach trips. Mudcrabs cooked in gata and ginger or just steamed is great.

Fresh seafood like crabs, fish, shrimps and squid are available throughout the province depending on the season. Lobsters are available in spots like Puraran Surf Resort during the summer season.

Most of the top recommended restaurants are found in the capital Virac:

• Kemji Garden & Resto (resort pool serving Filipino-Chinese dishes)
• Sea Breeze Restaurant (seafood and grilled specialties)
• Carrie’s Pasta, Pizza and More (local pizzeria)
• Blue Cafe (coffee and cakes)
• Blossoms Restaurant (comfort food, pasta, short orders, rice meals)
• Fernando’s Asian Cuisine (Filipino and Asian fare)
• Tandu Coffee (modern cafe named after a native beetle from where Catanduanes derived its name)

What to buy in Catanduanes

Abaca is a major product of the province, used in various souvenir products and handicrafts like decorative paper, textiles, mats, furniture, rope and brooms.

For food souvenirs, pili nut products are the most popular. Pili is a unique nut in the Philippines that is abundant in the Bicol region, including Catanduanes. The taste is comparable to Macadamia or almond nuts and is usually sold caramelized.

Festivals

Abaca Festival: Abaca Festival, held every 3rd week of May, showcases the importance of abaca fiber, a major source of livelihood in the Bicol region. The festival is celebrated with street dancing, parades, a dance showdown and various events throughout the month.

During our visit, we witnessed smaller events in other parts of Catanduanes such as the Paraw Regatta Festival in Palumbanes. The event had a sailing competition among fishermen on small fishing boats decked out with colorful sails, miniature paraw making contest and other events. I like how the sail of one boat was made of recycled umbrellas.

Catandungan Festival: Celebrated every October, the Catandugan Festival commemorates the foundation anniversary of Catanduanes as an independent province from Albay. Among the featured special events are: surfing competition, pantomina street dance, beauty pageant, agricultural and trade fair, sportsfests, guided tours, and photo exhibits.

NOTE: This trip was made possible by the Tourism Promotions Board (TPB) and the Provincial Government of Catanduanes. This travel guide was compiled from two trips to Catanduanes in February 2011 and May 2018.