My solo ride around Samar Island has been one of the most memorable rides I’ve done this year. I got to traverse through three provinces of (Western) Samar, Northern Samar and Eastern Samar. Since it’s the third largest island in the Philippines, it’s a bit challenging getting around by public transportation.

The main cities are geographically located far from each other and vans and jeeps don’t leave regularly. Usually, you have to wait for public transport vehicles to get filled up with passengers, so getting from one place to another usually requires a lot of waiting time. Since my main purpose was sightseeing and ease of access getting around, I thought I could cover more ground on a motorbike.

For riders just after a pure straight ride minus all the activities and sightseeing, they could probably loop the whole area I covered in 1-2 days. I allotted four days for this because I prefer driving only 4-5 hrs a day in the morning, so I have more time to enjoy the place and chill out in the afternoon.

Here’s my experiential day-to-day account of my “Endless Samar” ride:

• Day 1: Biri Island, Northern Samar
• Day 2: Laoang Island & Mapanas
• Day 3: Borongan, Eastern Samar
• Day 4: Ulot River Torpedo Boat Adventure

Where exactly is Samar Island?

Samar Island is located in Eastern Visayas, within the central Philippines. The island is divided into three provinces: Samar (the western two-fifths of the island of Samar), Northern Samar and Eastern Samar. The province of Samar covers the west side of the mainland and islands in the Samar Sea. The province is bordered by Northern Samar (capital Catarman) and Eastern Samar (capital Borongan City).

Why it’s great for riders

Samar is the third largest island in the Philippines, so there’s a lot of kilometers to cover for those who like long, quiet drives with just a few small towns in between. Compared to some other major tourist islands in the Visayas like Cebu and Bohol, Samar still feels very untouched and laid-back. If you want to go somewhere uncommercialized and embark on raw and rugged adventures in between, this is a great place to explore.

For riders coming from mainland Luzon (Sorsogon), Samar is the first island in the Visayas region you get to after crossing by ferry. While most just pass through on the Western side to cross over to Leyte, the rest of Samar island is definitely worth exploring. You can cross all 3 provinces by looping the island. This is currently only doable by motorcycle or bicycle as there is no bridge in one part of the North-Eastern portion so larger vehicles can’t pass. If you’re on a tight schedule, it’s time-consuming to get around by public transportation in Samar so having your own mode of transportation is great.

Route Map

This road trip covers a total of 588 km passing (Western) Samar, Northern Samar and Eastern Samar and back via the Pan-Philippine Highway / AH 26. This route involves a ferry crossing that is only accessible to motorcycles and bicycles.

• Day 1: Catbalogan City – Gandara – Sta. Margarita – Calbayog – Allen – Lavezares (157 km) + Boat from Lavezares to Biri Island
• Day 2: Lavezares – Catarman Diversion Road – Rawis – Laoang Island –  Palapag – Mapanas (125 km)
• Day 3: Mapanas – Gamay – Lapinig – Arteche – San Policarpio – Oras – Dolores – Taft – San Julian – Borongan City (173 km)
• Day 4: Borongan City – San Julian – Sulat – Taft – Paranas – Ulot River Torpedo Boat Ride – Motiong – Jiabong – Catbalogan City (146 km)

I was riding an XRM 125 which I rented in Catbalogan City in Western Samar, so that’s my start and end point. For those driving all the way from Manila and crossing via Sorsogon to Samar, your start and end point would be Allen Port in Northern Samar. Just adjust the route per day. I’m just sharing this road trip guide and ride highlights to provide tips to other riders planning to ride the same route.

This road trip route going clockwise on Samar island is ideal for cyclists/bikepackers and motorcyclists. A portion of the highway which passes Laoang Island from the Catarman – Laoang Road to Laoang – Palapag Road requires crossing by boat twice. I do not know if and how they transport larger vehicles like cars but during my visit there were no bridges connecting the small island there. I think most cars usually just pass counter clockwise through Samar’s cross-country road to get from Catbalogan to Oras, which is a very long detour.

Though getting to Biri Island in Northern Samar also involves a boat ride (you will have to park your motorcycles at the police station near the port or bring your bicycles on the boat) and is not easily accessible along the highway, I highly recommend you visit Biri Island. This is an amazing destination in itself and would make a very relaxing and rewarding ending to the ride, because in terms of raw landscapes in Samar, this is really a highlight.

READ MORE: TRAVEL GUIDE: Biri Island, Northern Samar

Landmarks & Points of Interest

Each town and city in Samar has unique points of interest and tourist attractions. However, getting to many of the beautiful sights like caves and waterfalls requires hiking, while visiting smaller islands requires boat rides. For those traveling by motorcycle, these are the main landmarks and points of interest easily accessible along the highway. Aside from the coastal roads, your best bet is to visit the town churches, municipal halls or plazas per town.

• Samar Capitol Building
• Lulugayan Falls (detour required)
• Bangon Falls (detour required)
• Tarangban Falls
• Biri Island & Rock Formations, Northern Samar (boat ride required)

• Laoang Island Boat Crossing
• Pangpang Waterfalls
• Mapanas Rock Formations

• Pinuslian Lagoon
• Oras Bridge
• Welcome to Eastern Samar Marker
• Borongan City Welcome Arch

• Baybay Beach and Boulevard
• Loop de Loop Bridge
• Samar Island Natural Park

• Bridge in Jiabong
• Giant Tahong Landmark, Jiabong

• Ulot River Torpedo Boat Adventure
• Samar Island Natural Park (SINP) 

What & where to eat in Samar

There are not a lot of big touristy restaurants around Samar Island, though you can find fastfood joints and eateries in the cities like Catbalogan, Calbiga, Catarman and Borongan. In most small towns, there are just carinderias or sari-sari stores where you can buy food. I suggest you bring your own water and light snacks for the ride so you don’t go hungry.

If you’re staying in Catbalogan City, one of the best eats unique food finds there is the Tahong BBQ being sold in street corners near van terminals. At the plaza, there are also vendors who also sell tahong-based street food like tahong balls and tahong lumpia. The nearby town of Jiabong is a major producer of mussels (look out for the giant tahong landmark in their plaza).

Binagol is a local specialty made of grated talyan root (a type of root crop similar to taro) steamed in a coconut shell and wrapped and tied in banana leaves. Binagol is mixed with coconut milk, condensed milk, sugar and cooked like a sticky cake. It’s a popular souvenir item that you can find in terminals and street corners in downtown Tacloban. You can also buy cookies and delicacies from Charito’s Delights.

If you’re staying in Biri Island in Northern Samar, make sure to have a meal at Lawud Park Restaurant, a native restaurant that specializes in seafood like lobster, crabs, fish, scallops, squid, shrimps and saang (the meat from conch shells,) which are a delicacy of the island.

The Baybay boulevard in Borongan City, Easter Samar is a good place to grab a bite to eat at night. They serve local grilled specialties like barbecue and puso (hanging rice) here. There are several interesting restaurants near here.

Where to Stay in Samar

Catbalogan

My base in Catbalogan was the Trexplore Guesthouse / Homestay, which offers several guestrooms, unlimited WiFi plus you get all the insider info you need to plan your trip. The fan room with common CR costs P200 a night, while the air-con room with private CR  costs P1000/night (good for groups).

• For budget travelers, San Roque Lodge offers Ordinary Rooms (fan, common CR) for P150/night and Air-conditioned rooms (with cable TV, toilet & bath) for P600/2 persons.
• GV Hotels in the Municipal Plaza, Behind Catbalogan City Hall (Tel. : +63 55 543-8011) offers basic budget aircon rooms, with promo rates for P600/night.
• Other hotels in Catbalogan are San Francisco Hotel, Fortune Hotel, Summer Garden Pension House, First Choice Hotel, and Maqueda Bay Hotel. Here’s the contact information of some other places to stay in Catbalogan.

Biri Island

For divers and leisure travelers, Biri Island Dive and Resort Center located centrally in town, would be your best option. They provide all equipment for divers and snorkelers alike. Some rooms come with their own kitchens and the resort has a fully equipped central kitchen facility which can be utilized for those who require it. Room rates start at P1,500/night.

For budget travelers, there are several guesthouses and inns in the main town area on the same road as the Tourism Center, including Gloria Vista Lodge, a homestay with basic fan rooms and common restrooms for P300/night. Take note that the island only has electricity for limited hours a day, so having aircon or an electric fan won’t really matter after midnight.  For reservations: 0947-2967737, 0917-4552500

Lawud Park Restaurant is a native seafood restaurant serving local delicacies and offering food delivery in Brgy. Progress, Biri Island, on the road you pass to visit the main rock formations. They have wide grounds for pitching tents and offer tent rentals and accommodations for P200/tent.

Borongan

GV Hotel is a chain of value inns that offers practical budget rooms. Their promo rate for a single air-con room is P600 a night. Rooms are very basic, but the place is secure. They have CCTV and parking for motorcycles and it’s centrally located. I stayed in the branch in Borongan while I was there, but they also have branches in Catarman and Catbalogan City.

Motorcycle rental in Samar

• There were no commercial motorcycle rental shops during my visit (September 2017), but I was able to rent a motorcycle through the help of Trexplore/Samar Outdoor Shop in Catbalogan City for P300/day. Contact Joni Bonifacio for motorcycle rental arrangements.
• Trexplore / Samar Outdoor Shop. Abesamis Store, Allen Avenue, 6700 Catbalogan Samar, Philippines. Contact numbers: 0919-2943865 / 09276750062. Email: info@trexplore.ph, samar@trexplore.ph, trexploresamar@gmail.com. Website: https://trexplore.ph/, www.trexplore.weebly.com, Facebook: Trexplore the Adventures

Travel Tips & Useful Info

• Load gas whenever you see a large gas station. There are some large gas stations located along the highway in major cities like Catbalogan, Catarman, Borongan and near the major junctions/intersection areas.
• There’s a small gas station before crossing Laoang Island. Make sure to load up there.
• Gas is mostly sold in bottles in the northeastern portion of the island, but locals say the quality is sometimes watered down and more expensive. It’s harder to find unleaded gas than premium.
• Boat rides to and from Biri Island have very limited schedules and only leave when boats are full. It’s best to be at the port early to make sure you have a seat.
• If you need access to ATMs, mechanics and free WiFi, the best places to base or stay overnight are: Catbalogan City, Calbayog, Catarman and Borongan City.
• Smaller towns usually don’t have WiFi and sometimes very weak cellphone signals.
• Weather in Samar Island is very unpredictable. It’s frequently hit by typhoons. Make sure to bring rain gear and plastic bags to waterproof your stuff.
• There are not a lot of establishments along the highway in many areas and it can feel very isolated.
• If you’re traveling alone, I would suggest driving only during the day for security reasons and finding a place to stay overnight in a small town or city before it gets dark.

Trip Summary

I was originally planning to do a full loop of the entire Samar Island, but I really underestimated the travel time I needed and the weather wasn’t the best. I was also getting a little paranoid since I was driving alone the whole time. This road trip just covers the North and Eastern part of the island (586 km). I know that there are many other points of interest in the Southern part of Samar, including Guian, Calicoan, Balangiga, Marabut, Sohoton and Calbiga.

If you’re planning to do a full Samar Island loop (roughly 780+ km), I’d suggest allotting an additional 2 days (and maybe base in Calicoan and Marabut for the night). Hopefully, during my next visit to Samar I can visit these places as well. And hopefully, I’ll have a companion for the next ride.