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Road Trip Guide: Mindoro Loop

Kara Santos

Mention Mindoro and most people immediately think of Puerto Galera. This party beach that’s easily accessible by sea travel from Batangas Port is one of the most popular weekend destinations for those based in the metro. But that’s literally just the tip of the island. The rest of Mindoro has much more to offer. Mindoro is actually the seventh largest island in the Philippines and is composed of two provinces: Oriental Mindoro and Occidental Mindoro.  

Mindoro is home to majestic Mount Halcon and Mounts Iglit–Baco National Park, a protected area and ASEAN Heritage Park. It’s the only place in the country where you can find the critically-endangered tamaraw (Mindoro dwarf buffalo). Mindoro is also the home of the Mangyan, eight distinct indigenous groups with their own tribal language, ancient script and customs.

I’ve been to the Oriental side of Mindoro several times, but for some reason, I’ve never been to the Occidental side (which is still not connected on the mainland on the Northern side). In fact, Occidental Mindoro is the last of the 81 provinces of the Philippines I had left to visit.

Compared to some other provinces in the country, Mindoro is pretty near Manila and is relatively easy to get to. I thought several times of just riding a RoRo bus or booking a flight to travel solo here, but decided since this was my last, I might as well make it count. So I decided to finally do one of my bucket list rides – the Mindoro Loop – and circle the entire island by motorcycle.

Where exactly is Mindoro?

Mindoro is an island in the Philippines located in the MIMAROPA region just off the southwestern coast of Luzon and northeast of Palawan.

Why it’s great for riders

Mindoro is one of the largest islands of the Philippines with over 480+ km (almost complete) circumferential road. For riders based in Manila who want to bring their own motorcycles, it’s a matter of boarding a ferry from Batangas Port (roughly 2-5 hours from Manila depending on the traffic) to cross to the island. The ferry ride itself lasts 1 – 3 hours.

Mindoro is divided in the middle by beautiful mountain ranges, giving riders both coastal and mountain views. You can choose to start and end the loop in different provinces as your entry or exit points.

Unlike riding in the mainland of Luzon where you have to go through Metro Manila and major cities, there’s virtually no traffic here, especially on the Occidental side. You get lots of wide open roads and flat highways where you can just go full throttle, passing rice fields and rural views and a bit of fun mountain twisties in the Southern end of the island.

It’s a little busier in and around the major port town of Calapan on the Oriental side, but still very manageable. Apart from Puerto Galera, the rest of Mindoro hardly gets visited by tourists so you can enjoy a quality road trip and vacation away from the crowds.

Route map for Road Trip (small displacement bikes)

This road trip covers a total of 976 km from Quezon City to Batangas Port, Abra de Ilog to Puerto Galera and back via the paved circumferential road and a few patches of rough roads and bridges under construction. This ride is doable on all types of motorcycles including big bikes and low-displacement scooters. It would make a great bike-packing trip as well for those who prefer to travel slower.

While it’s possible to ride around the whole island in a day for those who would like to test their endurance, those who prefer sightseeing and touring will ideally want to spend at least 4-5 days for a leisurely exploration of the island, with lots of chill downtime and at least one overnight island-hopping trip. You can cut this shorter if all you want to do is ride on the mainland or do half-day beach trips instead of staying overnight.

Clockwise or counterclockwise?

Since I wanted to focus on the Occidental side first (in case anything happened), we took a counter-clockwise route from Batangas. But if I were to do this again, I’d highly recommend a clockwise route instead. Start in Puerto Galera (the most well-known tourist spot), enjoy a nice long ride down South to cover more miles early on and then just chill out and relax in uncrowded beaches as a reward for the last stretch before ending at Abra de Ilog. But anyway, here’s the route we took for reference:

NOTE: As of May 2019, a 4-km stretch of road connecting Puerto Galera to Abra de Ilog in the northern part of Mindoro is still under construction. According to locals, some motorcycles have been able to cross this, but it still involves rough roads and river crossings.

There’s also a new 50-km cross-country road being built that zigzags through the mountains connecting Sablayan in Occidental Mindoro to the town of Victoria in Oriental Mindoro. This road is not yet marked on Google maps.

Day 1: Quezon City to Sablayan

Quezon City to Batangas Port

We started Monday morning from Quezon City going to Batangas Port. Land transport to Batangas port usually takes 2 to 3 hours depending on the traffic getting out of Manila. The fastest route from Manila to Batangas is by SKYWAY, South Luzon Expressway (SLEX) then CALABARZON highway which now traverses all the way to Batangas pier.

Since I was driving a small displacement bike that isn’t allowed on expressways, we passed the backroads of Laguna to get to the port. This takes around 4.5 – 5 hours, but the route is more scenic and less stressful to drive through compared to the high traffic areas of the service roads (passing Taguig, Bicutan, Alabang, etc.).

NOTE: Open map in a new tab and click avoid tolls & highway options for small displacement bikes.

RoRo from Batangas to Abra de Ilog

From Batangas Port, you can ride a RORO to Abra de Ilog, Puerto Galera and Calapan. It’s surprisingly easy to bring motorcycles on the RoRo. Just drive through the entrance, pay the necessary fees, go to the inspection area, and you’ll be directed which line to enter depending on your destination.

Montenegro Lines has 6 trips daily from Batangas City to Abra de Ilog and back. The first trip leaves at 1:00 am and the last trip is 9:00 pm. We made it at the nick of time for the 1 pm crossing. Estimated travel time is 2.5 to 3 hours.

Batangas City- Abra de Ilog Ferry Schedule:
RoRo Fees:

Abra de Ilog

Abra de Ilog is a small port town and the main entry point from the province for those coming from Batangas. The town’s name refers to an “opening of the river” and is named because of the numerous rivers and creeks that traverse this municipality.

Iraya Hotel & Restaurant

As soon as we arrived, we had late lunch at Iraya Hotel & Restaurant (the only hotel in Abra de Ilog) just outside the port and facing the grand terminal. The resto, which is open 24 hours a day, serves affordable appetizers and main courses like silog meals (P85), grilled stuffed squid (P95), garlic butter shrimps (P99) and crispy sisig (P140) with unlimited rice, desserts and drinks.

If you arrive late at night or get stranded at the port and need to stay the night, the hotel offers comfortable and air-conditioned rooms for Php 1,500 for a 24-hour stay. Since we arrived around 4pm, we decided to just drive to Sablayan instead.

Mamburao

Mamburao is the capital of Occidental Mindoro, and the next town after Abra de Ilog. We didn’t really get to explore much of the place and didn’t stop here for photo ops because it was getting dark when we arrived, but you can find the provincial capitol here, as well as a few restaurants, traveller’s hotels and simple beach resorts.

Sablayan

Sablayan is located in the central part of Occidental Mindoro, around 2-3 hours drive from Abra de Ilog. It is the largest municipality in the Philippines and is the common jump-off point to island-hopping trips to Apo Reef Natural Park and Pandan Island.

The road from Abra de Ilog to Sablayan was amazing. Lots of long stretches on flat highways fringed by rice fields and picturesque mountain ranges and hardly any other vehicles on the road. It was a pleasure just driving through the landscape tinged in the golden glow of sunset which faded into black the longer we drove on.

At one point, we stopped along the highway and turned off our lights. I wish I could capture the sight of the clear starry night sky glimmering like diamonds in space.

Sablayan Adventure Camp

It was dark by the time we got to Sablayan, so we stayed for the night at Sablayan Adventure Camp, a beachfront hotel that caters mainly to international divers. They have basic standard and duplex type (either fan or aircon) rooms good for groups and an in-house restaurant serving pretty good home-cooked meals like seafood like tanigue steak and calamares. Service was very friendly.

The resort provides secure parking for vehicles. For our overnight island-hopping trip, we checked out and asked permission to park motorcycles overnight here for no additional fee. They allowed us to wash up here afterwards in their public restroom for P50/per person without having to get another room.

Sablayan Adventure Camp. Punta Poblacion, Sablayan, Occidental Mindoro, Philippines. Phone: (+632) 821 1875, 0995-3407818, 0917-8419924. Rates: 1,200 for room for 2. P1,800 for aircon. www.sablayanadventurecamp.com/

For those looking for more budget-friendly options, there are several other beach resorts in the area (but the cheaper ones like Sablayan Paraiso Beach Resort with rooms costing just P550 were fully booked.) You can opt to pitch or rent tents there.

Day 2: Apo Reef Natural Park

We parked our rides there for the night and made our way to Apo Reef Natural Park located along the western waters in the Mindoro Strait. This coral reef system is the largest contiguous coral reef system in the country and second-largest in the world. It’s reachable by a 3-hour boat ride from Sablayan.

The reef and its surrounding waters are protected areas and one of the best known and most popular dive sites. But because of its location, it’s pretty expensive to get to. Not a lot of tourists travel on weekdays that we could join up with. But thankfully, my husband had contacts who live there from an environmental organization that he used to work with who arranged for us to hitch with a speedboat carrying a group of park rangers relieving the weekly shifts on the island.

We ended up enjoying the island, including the white beach, lighthouse and lagoon pretty much to ourselves. That night, we traded stories with the rangers. They shared some of the dangers they faced with illegal fishing in the area and recalled what it was to like to be stranded on the reef when Typhoon Yolanda made a direct hit on the island.

The next day, we hitched back with a group of geologists who had been collecting soil samples heading back to the mainland, but not before a snorkeling while pulled by boat and stopping by Pandan Island where we saw huge pawikans swimming in the wild.

(Will write a separate guide on Apo Reef soon)

Day 3: Sablayan to San Jose

We got back to Sablayan by mid-afternoon and decided to make the most of the remaining daylight by driving to the town of San Jose on the southern part of Mindoro, roughly 2-3 hours from Sablayan.

San Jose

San Jose is the largest town of Occidental Mindoro where you can find the largest commercial port and airport. The town also has the most banking, business, dining and commercial establishments making it a good place to stay overnight for those who want more hotel and dining options.

Sikatuna Beach Hotel & Restaurant

While in San Jose, we stayed overnight in Sikatuna Beach Hotel & Restaurant, a large hotel surrounded by tropical flowers and plants facing a coast where you can hire boats to go island hopping to secluded beaches in nearby Ilin Island and Grace Island. Rooms are clean and modern, equipped with air-conditioning, TV and private restrooms. The hotel can arrange airport pickup and drop-off, car rentals, tours and laundry service.

Their restaurant serves international Asian and Filipino dishes including seafood and beer. They serve the usual Continental and Filipino breakfast for in-house guests (Choice of Beef Tapa, Longganisa Corned Beef, Tocino, Chicken -Pork Adobo, Embutido, Daing Na Bangus or Danggit, w/ egg (as you like it) & garlic rice, served w/ coffee or tea.) Food is a bit on the pricey side though and not included in the room rates.

Sikatuna Beach Hotel. Brgy. San Roque, San Jose Occidental Mindoro, Philippines. Room rates: P1,200/room per night (good for 2). www.sikatunabeachhotel.com/

Day 4: San Jose to Puerto Galera

Our fourth day was spent traversing the entire side of Oriental Mindoro, which involved some nice mountain twisties and lots of long flat highways that looked almost desert-like. If it’s your first time in this area, you can choose to spend more time exploring this part of the province. I’m including some additional tips and notable destinations from a previous trip to Oriental Mindoro for reference.

Bulalacao

Bulalacao is a quiet coastal town located at the southernmost tip of Oriental Mindoro, roughly 176 kilometers from Calapan. We just breezed through here for this road trip, but I’ve stayed longer here during a previous trip. This is another alternative place to stay aside from San Jose, where you can enjoy quality beach-bumming and island-hopping minus the crowds.

Bulalacao Bay has lots of hidden coves, beaches, islands, islets and dive sites to discover including Aslom Island, Target Island, Tambaron Island, Buyaoyao Island, Suguicay Island and Bankal Port. From the Bulalacao Port, you can travel to Caticlan, the gateway to Boracay.

READ MORE: Travel Guide: Bulalacao, Oriental Mindoro

By the Sea Hotel Bulalacao

If you need to stay the night, there are several resorts and hotels along the main highway including By the Sea Hotel, a two-story hotel conveniently located in the Roro Port area of Bulalacao. They have a large parking area for vehicles.

The hotel is fairly new, so rooms are clean and modern, with all the amenities you need for comfortable stays like air-conditioned rooms, private showers, toiletries, towels and TVs in rooms. They also run a good restaurant that serves interesting dishes like Lamayo (dried fish) Pizza and Bul-Shot (the town’s signature cocktail).

By the Sea Hotel Bulalacao. Roro Port Area Sitio Kabangkalan Brgy. Poblacion, Bulalacao, Oriental Mindoro, Philippines. Contact number: 0995-3792335. Rates: P350.00 (dormitory fan room), P1069.90 (deluxe AC), P2,999.15 (Premier room). Facebook: By the Sea Bulalacao

Mansalay

If you have more time to spare, another notable stop in the side of Oriental Mindoro is the town of Mansalay, notable for its indigenous Mangyan population. It’s here where you can find the Panaytayan Mangyan Settlement, an upland Mangyan community that is home to an estimated 500 Mangyan residents. Going here requires a detour from the main highway though (I visited during a previous trip).

The area has been developed into a tourist-friendly community by Antoon Postma, a Dutch anthropologist who has been living with the Mangyans since 1965 and his Mangyan wife, Yam Ay. The settlement focuses on education, particularly the preservation of the Hanunuo script and language.

Nature’s Gift Garden Restaurant

If you’re looking for a unique place to eat while driving through the area, Nature’s Gift Garden Restaurant along the Western Nautical Highway is a good option. This family-friendly resto serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and coffee. It’s decorated in artificial greenery, so you’ll feel like you’re dining in an indoor garden. It’s a popular events venue for weddings and parties. Good stop for snacks, lunch and restroom breaks.

Calapan

Calapan City is the major gateway to Oriental Mindoro province, with the largest and busiest seaport on Mindoro Island. It’s currently one of only two cities in Region 4-B (MIMAROPA) aside from Puerto Princesa in Palawan. Calapan serves as the region’s administrative center. You can find a lot of business and transient hotels, restaurants and commercial establishments here.

Vencio’s Garden Hotel & Restaurant

We stopped for late lunch at Vencio’s Garden Hotel & Restaurant in Calapan, which serves seafood and good coffee. The restaurant has nice interiors in and strong WiFi. The outdoor area at the back has several native cottages perched over a mangrove area, making it a good area for groups to unwind at night in the city.

Puerto Galera

After a long day on the road, we finally made it to Puerto Galera, the most popular tourist destination in the whole island of Mindoro. Located at the north-westernmost part of the province, about 130 kilometers south of Manila, it is mainly accessible from the Southern Luzon gateway port of Batangas by numerous fastcrafts and ferries.

On the way there, we made stopped by Tamaraw Falls, a scenic waterfall along the highway that features artificial pools at the base where visitors can swim.

Puerto Galera is known for its vibrant nightlife and party scene, which makes it popular with weekend travelers and families looking to unwind. There are numerous hotels, restaurants, bars and shops in the areas of White Beach and Sabang Beach.

To be honest, the crowded scene with all the watersports, karaoke joints, restaurants, and firedancers on the beach was such a stark contrast and a bit anti-climactic after the quiet and rugged beauty of the rest of Mindoro, but it was nice to see all the families enjoying the beach, have working WiFi and lots of dining options.

Enjoying a Mindoro Sling after completing the Mindoro Loop. This classic Puerto Galera cocktail is made from Tanduay Rum, Mango and Orange Juice, Grenadine and Sprite.

Casa Marco Suites

We decided to stay in Casa Marco Suites upon the recommendation of Art’s biker friend. Casa Marco Suites is one of the newest beachfront hotels in White Beach equipped with modern amenities and facilities. Eco-rooms are fully air-conditioned with comfortable beds, large flat screen TV, and hot and cold shower.

Casa Marco Suites. Beach Front, White Beach, Puerto Galera, Oriental Mindoro. Peak Season rates (October 16 to June 16): P2,000/night – P2,500 (eco-room good for 2), P3,000/night (superior room good for 3), P4,000-P4,500/night (family room good for 4). Contact: 0977-8292525. Facebook: Casa Marco Suites

Cafe Marco

One of the main reasons I wanted to stay in Casa Marco Suites was because of the cafe right next door. Cafè Marco is this really cool biker’s den and cafe decorated with classic scooters, vintage bicycles and a custom bike. Love the interiors in this place.

The cafe offers rice meals, burgers, pasta, pizza, good coffee and desserts. Their breakfast meals are pretty big and good for sharing.

Casa Mia Ristorante Italiano

There are a lot of budget-friendly dining options in Puerto Galera, but if you want something a little special, try dining at Casa Mia Ristorante Italiano.

They serve high-quality Italian dishes like pasta and pizza (my ultimate comfort food) that you can enjoy with beer and wine. They also have Mediterranean, European, Vegetarian Friendly and Vegan Options .

Day 5: Puerto Galera to Quezon City

Going back home was fairly straightforward. We caught the 9:30 am ferry back to Batangas and arrived in Batangas at 11:00. What made the ride more challenging was the heat at noon and city traffic, but we managed to make it back home by early afternoon.

Met the owners of Casa Marco Suites right before we left for the port

RoRo from Puerto Galera to Batangas City

From Puerto Galera, there are two main ports (Muelle and Balatero) where you can ride back going to Batangas City. All the ROROs dock at Balatero Port, which is closest to the White Beach. You can buy tickets here ahead of time, but it’s easy enough to walk-in and just pay for the ticket and board the ferry.

Star San Carlos and Starlite Polaris has five trips daily from Puerto Galera to Batangas City and back. The first trip leaves at 5:00 am and the last trip is 5:30 pm. Travel time is just 1.5 to 2 hours. Check the detailed and updated ferry schedule here.

Puerto Galera – Batangas Ferry Schedule:
RoRo Fees:

Trip Summary

Our Mindoro Loop trip took 5 days including 1 day to get there and back and 1 overnight island-hopping trip. Based on my odometer reading and Google Map estimates, we traveled almost 1,000 kms. But more than the distance, this trip meant a lot more to me.

I’ve said it before, but there’s really something immensely satisfying about looping an island. Well, not completely. As of this writing, there’s still that 4-km stretch of the road connecting Puerto Galera to Abra de Ilog that under construction and is not yet passable. I guess it’s only a matter of time before more tourists discover the beauty of the Occidental side. But for me, the charm lies in how raw and rugged the place is. I hope it stays that way.

The Mindoro Loop marks the last of my “Project 81” series, my main travel quest that I’ve been working on for a long time. It feels satisfying to be able to close the chapter on this particular travel quest and finish it on my own terms. This ride actually made me realize that it’s really possible for me to explore the whole Philippines by motorcycle. I look forward to revisiting more islands in the future. This time, on two wheels.

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