A couple of days before we were supposed to ride through lahar in the foothills of Mt. Pinatubo in Pampanga, I couldn’t decide whether or not I wanted to actually ride. There was an overwhelming sense of excitement and dread forming in the pit of my stomach. Excitement because damn it would be cool to ride through the post-apocalyptic landscape of volcanic mudflow formed by Mount Pinatubo. Riders even have their own hashtag for it: #Lahardcore.
Dread because I could already envision myself crashing and falling royally in front of all the seasoned riders and motoring journalists who’d be ready to capture every move because “semplang” shots always make more dramatic video footage.
The sickening feeling grew when I heard what bikes were to be used: Yamaha XTZs. Most guys would probably be thrilled at the prospect of using these off-road machines, but these bikes are pretty tall for someone of my height. I’m generally afraid of riding any two-wheeled machine that looks too big on smooth pavement. Driving one I had barely any experience using through unpredictable sandy terrain with loose rocks and stream crossings galore sounded like a suicide mission.
Just because I like sightseeing and hunting for nice places to eat using a scooter does not mean I can drive through lahar, I told myself. That’s freaking lahar! My thing is casual road trips, riding around small islands, enjoying the scenery and going to beaches and stuff. What makes me think I can ride through the extreme terrain of volcanic debris and pyroclastic material especially in this sweltering summer heat?
It didn’t help that organizers asked for my blood type and emergency contact in case anything happened. Nah, I’ll probably just shoot the event instead to be safe. But I found myself bringing my helmet, gloves and other riding gear just in case.
And I’m glad I did because getting to ride through this otherworldly landscape that looks straight out of a Final Fantasy video game felt pretty damn amazing.
Metzeler Lahar Experience
The jump-off for the Metzeler Lahar Experience last April 17 was Angeles City, Pampanga, roughly 80 km from Manila via the North Luzon Expressway. After a filling breakfast of kakanin and pancit at Susie’s Pampanga and a briefing from the tourism officers of Angeles City, we geared up and chose our rides for the day. The event, organized by Motoworld, Metzeler Philippines, Yamaha Philippines and Imprint Customs for media was a sneak preview of the Lahar Challenge happening on May 3-5, 2019.
We got to use the Yamaha XTZs, motorcycles designed for off-road travel. With a 260 mm ground clearance and 180 mm stroke front suspension, this sporty bike is aggressive enough to tackle any kind of terrain both on and off the road.
The bikes had been fitted with brand new Metzeler MC360 mid-soft off-road tires purposely designed for extreme use on a wide range of terrain. The tires are street legal, so we could drive both on the city streets and the lahar area using the same bikes.
“Ang taas!” was my first impression. The bikes looked pretty intimidating. I asked which unit was the lowest as if that would have made any difference for me. As expected, I could barely reach the ground by tiptoeing when the bike was slanted to the side.
After driving on the pavement to the jump-off point, we made a courtesy call and learned more about the route we were taking in Sapang Bato, which is part of the ancestral domain of the Aeta community. The area is private and is only open to riders for special events such as these.
They’ve had incidents in the past where tourists ruined crops and endangered lives of residents by trespassing without guides and driving around recklessly with their own vehicles. Tourists are asked to register and come on 4 x 4 tours with proper guides and coordination beforehand. Barangay chief Roman King, a motorcycle enthusiast himself, asked us as visitors to respect the culture of the native Aetas and their ancestral land.
I first went to Sapang Bato in 2012. Back then I rode around with friends on board a 4 x 4 jeep and we all got buried under lahar sand for a spa treatment at Puning Hot Spring. I remember how steep the road was going down and how it felt like to be almost tossed out of the open jeep passing through the canyons. It was thrilling to be back on a motorcycle this time.
You wouldn’t expect to find this amazing off-road adventure destination so close to Angeles City. Most people think of Capas, Tarlac as the jump-off point to Mt. Pinatubo, but this alternative route passing through the Golden Trail in Porac, Pampanga offers a different experience altogether.
The terrain is not as harsh, open and desert-like. The area is vast but the air is cooler here with rugged canyons carved from lahar providing shade over the shallow streams that snake all over the landscape. The hills of towering ash are covered in green, forming ravines with stunning rock formations. Along the trail, you can find hot springs and waterfalls. It’s one of the most unique landscapes you can ride through in the country.
For safety, Motoworld lent me a more appropriate offroad helmet and some armor. After familiarizing myself with the bike in lahar and almost running straight into a deep section of the river, I started to get the hang of it and finding it pretty fun to drive.
It’s trickier to ride in this type of terrain especially since I had a hard time putting my feet flat on the ground. Every time I had to hit the brakes, it meant I’d be immediately put off balance and have to shift my weight so I could reach the ground. This made shifting the left foot pedal more challenging. Taller people who can put their feet down easily on both sides will never know this dilemma.
The handlebars keep wiggling around a lot. But thanks to the tips of coach Mel Aquino of the KRB Off-Road Track, I managed to ride. Gripping the tank with your knees keeps the bike more stable. The important thing is not to lose momentum. Every time I’d start to lose my balance, I’d twist the throttle to speed up. Don’t look down at the wheels, but look towards the horizon where you want to go. I also found that standing on the bike made riding more stable especially in the stream crossings over rocks. I pretty much ruined my boots, but those stream crossings were insanely fun!
I tried to imagine driving here with a smaller bike like a scooter. Driving with smooth tires would probably not get you very far and you’d just skid against the sandy surface. Big bikes would just sink as if on quicksand and be too heavy to maneuver. The Yamaha XTZ felt very nimble. The Metzeler tires also maximized grip and traction, allowing us to navigate over slippery and sandy areas, loose rocks and stream crossings more easily.
The riding part was great. I loved it. My problem was really braking. I tried to keep a distance from other riders, but sometimes when I would hit the brakes too abruptly, I wouldn’t be able to put my foot down and would end up dropping the bike on the side. But by that point, I decided I didn’t care if anyone saw and to just try again. It’s perfectly normal to drop a bike in this kind of terrain, at least it doesn’t hurt because of the sand-like texture of lahar.
You could tell everyone was having a blast and enjoying the place.
Near our lunch stop and rest area, there was a small pool-like spring with amazingly clear water. Some of the other riders jumped in, jeans, riding boots and all. The water was warm but still refreshing.
After a lunch of Kapampangan specialties like sisig, there were a few friendly group challenges including a tandem slalom race through the lahar terrain and a fire-starting competition where we had to gather our own kindling from the surroundings.
I’m usually not too keen about joining group rides and motorcycle events because I don’t like the competitive nature of racing. I’m always afraid other riders won’t think I’m “legit enough” or will size me up on my speed or performance. I’m not really a speed junkie and I prefer to do things at my own pace. But I got the sense that everyone there was just having a good time. No one gave anyone a hard time about falling. It was all friendly, good-natured fun.
The camaraderie carried on until the ride back to the city, where we were met with an unexpected downpour. Good thing, there was crispy pata and booze at BBQ & Beer waiting along with special awards for the day’s challenge winners. Now that’s how you end a great ride.
2019 Lahar Challenge
The Metzeler Lahar Experience gave us just a taste of what to expect from the 2019 Lahar Challenge, a one-of-a-kind motorcycle event happening this May 3-5, 2019 in Pampanga.
For those who want to experience what it’s like to ride through lahar, this is the event to do it. Since the area is not normally open to riders, this will give you the access you need. All the logistics have been prepared and safety measures in place including support vehicles and ambulances on standby in case of accidents.
Even if you aren’t that confident about your riding skills, how else are you going to learn, right? After being able to ride through lahar, you’ll have more confidence tackling those roads constantly under construction and dirt roads in the provinces when you travel.
Not only will this help you gain new riding skills, but getting to ride in this unique setting in Mt. Pinatubo is a reward in itself. For full details and mechanics on the Lahar Challenge, visit
https://laharchallenge.com/
What an awesome adventure! I had no idea these kinds of adventures were available to common people in the Philippines what have the ambition and desire. All one needs is the money and the time. I hope to do this someday. Thanks for a great article.
Hi Mark. Thanks for taking the time to read this. The lahar ride event has been postponed until the end of the year though due to a recent earthquake that hit the area. Will update this when more information is available.