There’s something nostalgic and calming about railway travel that I enjoy whenever I ride trains in other countries. From the distinctive horn announcing arrivals and departures, the rhythmic clickety-clack of the wheels, the swaying motion on the tracks, and the changing scenery of rural landscapes, traveling by train offers a different experience from what I’m normally used to.
On a train, you don’t have to deal with traffic on the road or the heat and discomfort of other forms of public transport. Unlike vans which squeeze passengers in like sardines and confine you to one spot the whole time, you can stretch your legs, walk around, and explore different cabins on a train. Train travel may be slow, but if you’re not in a rush, it can also be very relaxing. You can just sleep in comfort, get lost in a book, or watch the scenery roll by.
The last time I rode the PNR train in the country was back in 2011 during the short-lived revival of the Bicol Express route from Manila to Naga. While this long-haul route is currently suspended due to ongoing railway rehabilitation, it’s still possible to go on shorter train rides from Naga, Camarines Sur to Sipocot and Legazpi, Albay on the Bicol Commuter regional rail service.
I’ve been wanting to ride the PNR train again just for the experience, so when a road trip around Albay and Sorsogon with Naga-based parents came up, I decided to include the 100-kilometer route from Naga City to Legazpi City in Albay via the PNR train ride to kick off the trip.
Coming from Manila the night before, I took Isarog Lines Bus K (book tickets online here), which departed at Cubao at 8:30 pm and arrived at 5:15 am just in time to catch the first PNR train departing for Legazpi at 5:38 a.m. The timing was a bit tight, so if you want to arrive earlier in the morning, you can ride buses that leave at 6:30 or 7:30 pm just to be safe. If your bus is delayed, you could also catch the afternoon train to Legazpi and arrive in the evening, though it might be too dark to get a view of the scenery. GoogleMaps is updated with the PNR train schedule, and you can easily see what station you’re in with the GPS.
For locals who live in Bicol, riding the PNR train probably feels as routine and ordinary as how city folk feel about riding the MRT and LRT. But there’s always something fun about trying a new route for the first time. Riding trains in Manila isn’t exactly scenic, while this particular train route passes through Albay, offering views of Mayon Volcano, the world’s most perfect cone.
I had to rush a bit from the bus station to the train station but getting tickets was straightforward. The train ticket from Naga to Legazpi costs P155 per person, with discounts for seniors, PWDs and students.
Not a lot of passengers ride from end to end regularly. There were a lot of empty seats coming from the Naga terminal, though more passengers got on at other train stations and flag stops. The cabins are all new and clean and the air-conditioning was pretty strong. Since I rode overnight from Manila on a cold bus, I was prepared with a jacket and an inflatable neck pillow, which made the trip more comfortable.
Unlike the front-facing seats and sleeper cabins found in the old Bicol Express, the seats here are all on the side, similar to the LRT commuter trains. The ride from Naga to Legazpi takes roughly 3 hours, so passengers have plenty of time to catch up on sleep on board.
One of the best parts of train travel is getting to admire the scenery. Unfortunately, some windows of the train aren’t that clear because the extreme heat has warped some of the clear stickers and tint outside covering the glass windows making their surface look cracked, so you might not get the best views depending on where you sit.
I transferred to a seat near the front of the train where the windows were a bit clearer. You can spot Mayon Volcano once you reach towns of Albay like Ligao and Daraga. While it’s hard to take photos on a moving train, you can still enjoy the view. PNR previously shared this view of the train from the driver’s POV.
Unlike terminals with stations, flag stops are platforms along the tracks with metal stairs where passengers can board or alight from the train easily. If you ride from a flag stop, you can pay the roving conductors for tickets.
During the ride, I ended up having a chat with one of the conductors and found out that most passengers are daily commuters who use the train for shorter legs, rather than leisure tourists after sightseeing in Albay. He said they would probably get more passengers if the train left earlier in the morning, in time for employees and students to get to school and work on time in Legazpi and Naga respectively (the trains arrive a little before 9:00 am on both ends).
For leisure tourists looking for a new way to explore Bicol, it’s possible to bring pets (as long as they’re wearing diapers) and folding bicycles aboard the train, so that’s something that might interest bikers eager to explore Albay in the future. Unfortunately, bikers can’t ride and bring full-sized bicycles inside the train (unless they’re dismantled, packed properly, and treated as cargo with a separate fee equivalent to one person). Hopefully, they’ll change this rule in the future.
There was a slight delay in the Travesia station when I rode, which gave passengers a chance to use the restroom at the station. Unlike the sleeper cabins of the old, there’s no restroom on board the new trains, so make sure to go before or after your ride. You wouldn’t want to be stuck at a random terminal as the train leaves.
The train rolled into the Legazpi Station on Penaranda Street at 8:56 am, about 14 minutes behind the expected time of arrival. Normally, the total travel time should be around 3 hours and 4 minutes.
The end of the line in Albay is the iconic Legaspi Station, a pebbled art deco train station designed by Pablo Antonio Sr. (1901-1975), who is regarded as the Father of Philippine Modern Architecture and the 1976 National Artist Awardee for Architecture.
This station originally designed in the late 1930s is faced with the Manila Railroad Company’s signature stone masonry. While the design feels very dated by modern standards, if you’re a history buff, you’ll find the vintage look notable. I’m glad they preserved the original heritage look instead of building a modern station in its place.
I looked for a cafe in the vicinity to kill time, but most places weren’t open yet so I hailed a tricycle to SM Legazpi instead for brunch and to regroup with family who drove a car from Naga.
In case you weren’t able to get a good view of Mayon from the train, once you’re in Albay, you can your fill from anywhere in the city from different vantage points, including the mall’s Food Hall on the 3rd Floor.
Interested to try riding the Naga to Legazpi PNR route in the future? Check out my full travel guide with detailed schedules, fares, working timetable, FAQs, travel tips and more here.