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ITALY | Exploring Rome on rented bikes

Kara Santos

Rome isn’t really famous as a cycling destination compared to other European cities. The first thing that comes to mind when you think of exploring Rome on two wheels is driving the iconic Vespa rather than a traditional bicycle. My original vision of our Roman Holiday involved whizzing around ancient sites and city streets aboard the classic Italian luxury scooter.

But between renting a Vespa (45 euros) or bicycles (15 euros), bikes won based on practicality and cost. Like many tourist hotspots worldwide, Rome has its share of heavy traffic, narrow streets, and somewhat chaotic driving conditions.

While walking around, we noticed that many sites around Rome were undergoing major construction (ahead of the 2025 Roman Catholic Holy Year) and that parking spaces for cars and scooters were limited, which made exploring on bikes seem more appealing. Many streets in the historic center of Rome have been pedestrianized.

Navigating around a new city on your own always feels satisfying. The great thing about biking is you can decide where you want to go and stop wherever you like. You can visit places you’re actually interested in without being bound by a tour or public transport.

I have to mention that we like biking back home and this isn’t an activity for everyone. Couples who prefer more organized sightseeing tour smight prefer to avail of Rome Honeymoon packages instead.

Where to rent bicycles and scooters in Rome: Bici & Baci

While in Rome, we rented bikes from Bici & Baci (Italian for “bike and kisses”), a local shop that offers traditional bicycle rentals and scooters. It’s hard not to get attracted to their shop, with the fleet of colorful Vespas and Kymco Likes tantalizingly displayed for tourists to admire.

Aside from traditional bikes and scooters, they also offer electric bikes, e-scooters, cute Fiat 500 cars, Ape Calessin (trikes), and more, which tourists can rent for self-drive tours. Those who want the services of a local expert can book guided bicycle tours or Vespa tours with sidecars.

Bici & Baci has several branches around Rome including one near the Rome Termini Station, one near the Colosseum (which contains the Vespa Museum) and another next to the Metro Spain station. We rented bikes from the branch near the Rome Termini Station, just five minutes from our hotel.

Our bike route

From the bike rental shop, we headed first to The Colosseum. This theater in the center of the city of Rome that lies east of the Roman Forum is the largest ancient amphitheater ever built and the largest one still standing in the world.

Since we already visited most of the main attractions (Trevi Fountain, The Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Spanish Steps) on foot, we decided to bike to the outskirts to get away from the crowded city center.

Our main plan was to bike Via Appia Antica (the Appian Way), one of the earliest and strategically most important Roman roads of the ancient republic. This ancient Roman road was used as a main route for military supplies for its conquest of southern Italy in 312 BC.

Sections of the original road beyond Rome’s environs have been preserved. The closest stretch near Rome is now a nature and archaeological park, ideal for biking and nature strolls, especially on Sundays when the road is closed to vehicular traffic. We rode here on a weekday and had to contend with some cars, but it was a very different atmosphere from the main streets in Rome. 

Tourists can walk or bike the road’s entire length to visit Roman ruins, tour catacombs, and experience a quieter side of the city, beyond the typical historical sites.

From the city center, we followed the bike paths and eventually found Porta Appia, the gate of the Aurelian Walls. Along the route, we passed the Saint Sebastian at the Catacombs, a minor basilica in Rome, which was one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome traditionally visited by pilgrims. 

Most of the route is paved with cobblestones, which is not exactly the flattest surface to bike on. Expect a lot of vibrations on your ride. The original sections of the Appian Way are made of larger stones, which made the ride even more bumpy.

After reaching the Mausoleo de Cecilia Metella, we came across Appia Antica Caffe, a charming cafe that serves as the starting point for tourists who take the bus. They also offer bike rentals here, so if you prefer, you can start your bike exploration from here.

If you want something light, you can grab a coffee or cappuccino, cookies, cakes, ice cream, croissants, and more in their al fresco area up front. The cafe’s counter takes inspiration from the street with handmade bricks and inlaid with small archaeological finds.

We stayed in the cafe’s shady garden in the back. They serve breakfast dishes, homemade sandwiches, cold pasta, pizza, salads, cold cuts, cheese plates, craft beer, and more.

The cafe has a small lending library, a shaded veranda, and clean bathrooms (no fee to use for guests). We enjoyed a leisurely lunch of cold pasta salad and parmigiana, before backtracking to the city. 

While you can still explore or bike further into the countryside, locals say that route can be challenging for bikes and vehicles beyond Via de Cecilia Metalla, so this is a good endpoint. We didn’t have a strict route plotted out, so I suggested biking to Trastevere, a neighborhood in Rome just south of the Vatican known for its craft beer pubs.

While the weather was a bit hot, it was a pleasant drive back through uncrowded streets. I appreciated the designated bike lanes, tree-lined residential areas, and pocket parks.

Along the route, we passed Circo Maximus, once an ancient Roman chariot-racing stadium and mass entertainment venue in Rome, converted into a public park.

Crossing the bridge to Trastevere, we spotted Tiber Island, an island in the middle of a river near Vatican City that previously housed the remains of St. Bartholomew.

Fun fact: This “sacred island” is the only river island that through Rome and the smallest inhabited island in the world, measuring just 300m long and 90m wide. 

Trastevere, which means “beyond the Tiber” is located on the other side of the river to the typical sights, so it’s not as touristy. It may not have ornate fountains or ancient ruins, but there’s a gritty vibe here that adds a distinct character to the place.

This former working-class Roman neighborhood is known for its funky, bohemian atmosphere, trattorias, wine bars, boutiques, budget hotels, nightlife, and craft beer pubs that cater mostly to locals.

I read about Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa (literally “What the hell are you doing here?”) in a Beer Bucket List book I came across during our airport layover.

From the outside, it looks a bit intimidating with the graffiti-covered wall. Aside from a couple of seats at the counter, the pub has a larger space inside including a drinking den in a basement area for larger groups.

The bar is said to be “the godfather of the craft beer scene in the city” and is a must-visit for beer lovers in Italy. They serve craft beer from all over Europe, including guest brews from Belgium and Germany.

From Trastevere, we headed back through Ponte Sisto, a late 15th-century pedestrian footbridge that offers a great view of the river. We got a bit lost in the side streets and alleyways before we eventually reached the main street of Via Cavour.

While heading back, I noticed another branch of Bici & Baci which contained the Vespa Museum), so we had to check it out since the entrance was free.

The Vespa Museum is located in the basement of the bike rental shop and has a cool display of vintage Vespas from different decades. They also sell good quality merch for Vespa enthusiasts.

Being able to wander around and discover places yourself is always fun. While the cycling infrastructure in Rome’s main historic center isn’t extensive and some cobblestone streets pose an extra challenge, if you enjoy bike touring, cycling around Rome can be an exciting way to explore the city. Biking is less tiring than walking and more fun than taking public transportation (at least for me).

Bike route map on Strava

Our total ride wasn’t that long at just 23 kilometers, but I’m glad to have experienced a different side of Rome.

Bici & Baci bike and scooter rental locations in Rome

Bici & Baci has several branches around Rome in the following locations:

How much do bike and scooter rentals and tours cost in Rome?

Prices start from:

Bike rental requirements

Travel tips for biking in Rome

Other places to rent bikes in Rome

In case you’re traveling with smaller kids and want a safer place to bike around, Villa Borghese, the third-largest public park in Rome, also has bikes for rent. Bici Pincio offers traditional bikes and rickshaw-type pedal bikes for families with kids.

We rented bikes for 5 euros for one hour another afternoon in Rome. You can visit attractions and museums around the landscaped garden, including a pond for boating.

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