If I had to pick a favorite tree, it would be the Balete (a relative of the Banyan tree). There’s just something about their haunting appearance, gnarled roots and their close ties to creatures of folklore that I find fascinating. They often look and feel like they could be portals to the Underworld. Or at least the setting for a good horror story.
The Balete tree is infamous in Philippine folklore for being the dwelling place of engkantos or supernatural creatures and nature spirits such as dwendes (dwarves), kapres (tree demons), diwatas (fairies) and tikbalangs (demon horses). If you grew up in the Philippines, you’ve probably been told by superstitious folk not to go anywhere near these trees as these could be gateways to the world of myths. This probably explains why I’m drawn to them.
Balete trees are so famous that Pinoy movies and Halloween TV specials have been made about them. Urban legends still surround Balete Drive in New Manila, a road named after trees that formerly lined it. Some drivers still avoid this road at night, because of stories of a white lady roaming the streets.
Considered sacred trees in other cultures, Balete trees are actually epiphytes, a type of plant from the fig family that grows on other trees. They find a host tree, attach themselves to it, ensnare it in a tight hold of roots, and strangle the host tree to death. Other Balete trees start as air plants and grow as hanging roots that eventually reach the ground, encircling and suffocating the host tree in the process.
There are several well-known Balete trees around the Philippines, some of which have become popular tourist attractions because of their age and massive size. Here are just a few of the most notable ones you can find around the Philippines.
Antique
The province of Antique on the island of Panay in Western Visayas has long been linked to stories of aswangs and witchcraft. While I enjoyed visiting Antique’s beautiful islands and mountains, it was great to encounter one of the most enchanting and unique-looking Balete trees I’ve seen up close here, said to be at least a century old.
While visiting Nogas Island from the town of Anini-y, we came across this ent-like wonder after a short hike to a forested area through a tunnel of kalachuchi trees leading towards the lighthouse. The branches dip down in several sections, making it very easy to climb. The roots form natural doorways and passageways around the tree trunk.
Before climbing up the tree, our local guides asked us to say “tabi, tabi po” (excuse me) to the unseen spirits out of respect to ask permission for passing through their territory. This is still a common practice in many provinces. The lovely tree tunnel, presence of large fruit bats in the forest and the fact that the island is home to lots of cats only add to this tree’s mystical quality. You can also go snorkeling and diving or swim along the shores of the white sand beach here.
Aurora
One of the most visited tourist spots for those going to the surf town of Baler is the 600-year old Balete tree in the neighboring town of Maria Aurora. This massive tree towers more than five stories high. It’s said that it takes 60 people holding hands with arms outstretched to encircle it. Locals claim that this is the largest tree of its kind in Asia. Though it hasn’t quite lived up to its nickname yet, it’s been dubbed “The Millenium Tree.”
What makes this tree even more fascinating is visitors can enter and climb up inside it. The tree is hollow and made up of a maze of gnarled roots intertwined inside and all around providing a natural stairway you can climb up like a beanstalk or vertical tunnel.
The easiest way to climb up is to go barefoot so your feet can cling easily to the bark. A lot of the passageways require a tight squeeze and not everyone can fit through the roots to get up. Another option is to climb the roots outside the tree itself.
Rizal
One of my favorite weekend destinations is the province of Rizal. Daraitan, a village in Tanay, Rizal is home to Tinipak Rocks and a cave that’s guarded by a large Balete tree. At the base of the tree is a tiny crevice from where you descend down into a dark chamber and cave below. This tree is said to be at least 300 years old.
During my visit there, I noticed blood smears on the rocks near the trees. Our guide told us that locals still sacrificed chickens to the spirits of the tree and cave to ensure the safety of travelers.
At the end of the path inside is a subterranean stream and small basin where you can take a dip in icy cold cave waters. How’s that for an amazing portal to a hidden world?
Siquijor
Siquijor is another island province in the Philippines shrouded in stories of sorcery and witchcraft. Dubbed the “Mystic Island,” this province in the Central Visayas is known as the home of witches, shamanistic folk healers and mambabarang (people who can cause affliction or death by supernatural means).
One of their major landmarks is the “Enchanted Balete Tree” in Barangay Campalanas. This grand 400-year old tree is believed to be the oldest and the biggest in the province. You can easily find it along the circumferential road in Lazi.
What makes this tree unique is the natural spring. Siquijor’s balete tree has a small spring that has formed at the base which flows into a man-made pool where you can dip your feet. Guides let tourists feed fish with bread and market the pool as an outdoor fish spa of sorts. The nearby Lazi Convent and church are also worth visiting if you’re in the area.
Misamis Occidental
During a solo trip to Misamis Occidental, I was totally amazed by this Balete tree in the middle of a cemetery in the heritage town of Jimenez. This massive tree is believed to be more than 155 years old and is completely surrounded by graves.
The tree itself looks creepy enough with all the outstretched branches, but its location in a graveyard just dials up the fear factor a notch. Crumbling crosses lie right by the tree’s roots and some branches have started to dip down and grow over the gravestones. The tree looks extremely healthy, thanks to the nutrients in the soil surrounding it.
I kind of wanted to enter the roots just to see if the tree was hollow but didn’t want to desecrate any graves here, so I just took photos from a distance. According to locals, parents used to scare kids and say a large snake lived inside so they wouldn’t enter. Let me know if it’s true if you ever visit. Some of the roots do look very snake-like.
Negros Oriental
I have yet to visit the “Wonder Tree” of Canlaon City, which is believed to be 1,328 years old (as estimated by botanists from the Silliman University). You can find this tree in the middle of a vast rice and coffee plantations in OISCA Farm in Lumabao, roughly 4-5 hours from Dumaguete City in the province of Negros Oriental. Also called “Dalakit”, this is said to be the oldest recorded tree in the province and possibly in the country.
In fact, it’s so old that the tree was already standing before the country was discovered by Magellan. It takes about 42 grown men to encircle the colossal tree’s trunk with their hands outstretched.
Superstitious folk believe that the Balete Tree is a spot where fairies gather. But in reality, the massive tree serves as a sanctuary for fireflies, which cause it to light up at night. The tree itself serves as its own ecosystem for bats, lizards and different kinds of insects.
Whether or not these trees are portals to mythical worlds, for those who seek them out, they’ll be gateways to some amazing adventures in remote provinces off the tourist trail. I find Balete trees amazing rather than creepy, but am glad for the superstitious beliefs surrounding them. These have actually worked in their favor since the main reason these trees have remained so well-preserved is the fear of angering nature spirits if they’re cut down. I only wish people felt the same about all trees in general.